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SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
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PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
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SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
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SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1100
Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "
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<blockquote data-quote="chilidawg" data-source="post: 161835" data-attributes="member: 1700"><p>Okay here's my 10 cents.</p><p></p><p> I not only, (as others have) suggest you ignore the manual for this purpose, but I also suggest that you just go with the guys that have actually done it. Recently!</p><p></p><p>That manual was most likely written in about 1980, 35 years ago, most likely before your bike was ever built, and well before it had 30 odd years to stew before you decided to restore it.</p><p></p><p>I also strongly suggest that you remove the cam wheels and rockers, and replace the valve seals, It could be why the smoke is from the left hand side. if you don't have all the tools and equipment for it, then that's what your local small engine shop is for. It shouldn't be anything new to them. they can most likely clean them up and re-surface the heads.</p><p></p><p>If your worried about parts availability, I've got a set of new cam seals and a set of new valve seals that you can have for free + shipping, (about $8 will work,) just as long as you follow this job through!</p><p></p><p>My only other suggestion (for now,) is that you do <em><strong>not</strong></em> torque down the cam carriers to the 20 ft/lbs that is in the manual, but just give them about 12. They're old, that's about all they can take. You really don't want to be going down that Helli-coiling road, like I nearly did or finding yourself a new head. (I had another head on hand).</p><p></p><p>Forget the book Fella, go with what these people tell you, they only have your bikes best interests at heart.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="chilidawg, post: 161835, member: 1700"] Okay here's my 10 cents. I not only, (as others have) suggest you ignore the manual for this purpose, but I also suggest that you just go with the guys that have actually done it. Recently! That manual was most likely written in about 1980, 35 years ago, most likely before your bike was ever built, and well before it had 30 odd years to stew before you decided to restore it. I also strongly suggest that you remove the cam wheels and rockers, and replace the valve seals, It could be why the smoke is from the left hand side. if you don't have all the tools and equipment for it, then that's what your local small engine shop is for. It shouldn't be anything new to them. they can most likely clean them up and re-surface the heads. If your worried about parts availability, I've got a set of new cam seals and a set of new valve seals that you can have for free + shipping, (about $8 will work,) just as long as you follow this job through! My only other suggestion (for now,) is that you do [i][b]not[/b][/i] torque down the cam carriers to the 20 ft/lbs that is in the manual, but just give them about 12. They're old, that's about all they can take. You really don't want to be going down that Helli-coiling road, like I nearly did or finding yourself a new head. (I had another head on hand). Forget the book Fella, go with what these people tell you, they only have your bikes best interests at heart. [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1100
Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "
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