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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1100
Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "
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<blockquote data-quote="joedrum" data-source="post: 162735" data-attributes="member: 98"><p>ok made to care ... this is where things get a little dangerous and also hard to understand....usually the left head the belt goes on rather easy .....and somtimes looks to be off a bit ....belts are flimsy ....valve are not ..so if there is backwards push on the belt and belt is not tension good yet it can go away from the pulley mark a bit ....if you turn the motor some and find a free spot ..the right head has a lot of tension on it and is rather hard to get on right ...but once you get the belts on you can turn the motor by hand with the crank bolt and find a free spot or not tension on belt from valve springs at all ...this is when you set belt tension on that head ....it will free spot one head at a time ..you wil have to move crank again to get free spot on other head ....tension once in the free spot should be where there is about a 1/4" deflection total moving belt up and down on the strait side of belt ...when this is done the mark should be line up rather perfect if it gets worse its wrong for sure...once both sides are done turn crank many times by hand slowly and feel for any kind of interference perferably with adjuster back off valves but not necessary ...take pics of pulley marks as you see them right and post it on forum to get opinions before ever trying to start it or use starter at all</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="joedrum, post: 162735, member: 98"] ok made to care ... this is where things get a little dangerous and also hard to understand....usually the left head the belt goes on rather easy .....and somtimes looks to be off a bit ....belts are flimsy ....valve are not ..so if there is backwards push on the belt and belt is not tension good yet it can go away from the pulley mark a bit ....if you turn the motor some and find a free spot ..the right head has a lot of tension on it and is rather hard to get on right ...but once you get the belts on you can turn the motor by hand with the crank bolt and find a free spot or not tension on belt from valve springs at all ...this is when you set belt tension on that head ....it will free spot one head at a time ..you wil have to move crank again to get free spot on other head ....tension once in the free spot should be where there is about a 1/4" deflection total moving belt up and down on the strait side of belt ...when this is done the mark should be line up rather perfect if it gets worse its wrong for sure...once both sides are done turn crank many times by hand slowly and feel for any kind of interference perferably with adjuster back off valves but not necessary ...take pics of pulley marks as you see them right and post it on forum to get opinions before ever trying to start it or use starter at all [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1100
Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "
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