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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
Goldwing Magazine Articles
Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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GL1000
1975 GL1000
1978 GL1000
GL1100
1980 GL1100 Standard
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1982 GL1100 Interstate
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1983 GL1100 Interstate
GL1200
1984 GL1200 Standard
1986 GL1200 Interstate
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
GL1500
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1000
Neutral switch...
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<blockquote data-quote="Workinman" data-source="post: 220291" data-attributes="member: 5673"><p>In hindsight, possibly. But then dropping the engine is no picnic either. Maybe not so bad if that’s your objective from the beginning, but when you’re following the HONDA service manual, and it says to just remove the header, remove one nut and you’re home free, it soon becomes a nightmare. </p><p>Also in hindsight, if I had merely checked or replaced the switch while I had the engine out I could have saved a HUGE amount of knuckle busting. (Apparently I’m not that smart...) And if I had done more research before tackling this job, instead of simply trusting my HONDA service manual, I would have done this job in a couple of hours and been done with it. As it is, the switch is out, the new one is ready to go back in, and I’m a little wiser in the process. Hopefully my experience will help someone in the future.</p><p>I’ve also figured out that I can replace the oil screen screws with shorter BOLTS, so the next time, it won’t be impossible to remove them. :salute:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Workinman, post: 220291, member: 5673"] In hindsight, possibly. But then dropping the engine is no picnic either. Maybe not so bad if that’s your objective from the beginning, but when you’re following the HONDA service manual, and it says to just remove the header, remove one nut and you’re home free, it soon becomes a nightmare. Also in hindsight, if I had merely checked or replaced the switch while I had the engine out I could have saved a HUGE amount of knuckle busting. (Apparently I’m not that smart...) And if I had done more research before tackling this job, instead of simply trusting my HONDA service manual, I would have done this job in a couple of hours and been done with it. As it is, the switch is out, the new one is ready to go back in, and I’m a little wiser in the process. Hopefully my experience will help someone in the future. I’ve also figured out that I can replace the oil screen screws with shorter BOLTS, so the next time, it won’t be impossible to remove them. :salute: [/QUOTE]
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