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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
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Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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1975 GL1000
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Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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<blockquote data-quote="Rednaxs60" data-source="post: 198638" data-attributes="member: 4617"><p>There are only two grounds and sounds like you have cleaned both. The ground in front of the regulator is a welded boss to the frame.</p><p></p><p>There is a fellow over on Steve Saunders forum, Rudy, who has a good write up on what he does whenever he gets a new used bike. He takes it back to the original configuration by removing all add-ons. He then puts together an electrical plan to connect everything back up. This way he knows exactly where everything is connected. Here's his write up on this. I agree with almost everything, but best practices have evolved a bit. This site is for a 1500 with an external alternator, but the premise is sound. It's a good read. </p><p> <a href="https://www.goldwingtech.info/auxwiring/auxpwrwiring.html" target="_blank">https://www.goldwingtech.info/auxwiring/ ... iring.html</a> </p><p></p><p>I agree it is not an exciting problem because there is no external excitation to the alternator. The black wire to the regulator only provides power to the regulator to turn it on. </p><p></p><p>The voltage drop is directly related to the ability of the alternator to provide enough power to support the load requirement(s) at any given RPM. </p><p></p><p>Just a few thoughts.</p><p></p><p>Cheers</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rednaxs60, post: 198638, member: 4617"] There are only two grounds and sounds like you have cleaned both. The ground in front of the regulator is a welded boss to the frame. There is a fellow over on Steve Saunders forum, Rudy, who has a good write up on what he does whenever he gets a new used bike. He takes it back to the original configuration by removing all add-ons. He then puts together an electrical plan to connect everything back up. This way he knows exactly where everything is connected. Here's his write up on this. I agree with almost everything, but best practices have evolved a bit. This site is for a 1500 with an external alternator, but the premise is sound. It's a good read. [url=https://www.goldwingtech.info/auxwiring/auxpwrwiring.html]https://www.goldwingtech.info/auxwiring/ ... iring.html[/url] I agree it is not an exciting problem because there is no external excitation to the alternator. The black wire to the regulator only provides power to the regulator to turn it on. The voltage drop is directly related to the ability of the alternator to provide enough power to support the load requirement(s) at any given RPM. Just a few thoughts. Cheers [/QUOTE]
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