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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Lighting & Electrical
Rebuild '82 Standard Wire Harness and Fuse Box
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<blockquote data-quote="mcgovern61" data-source="post: 190462" data-attributes="member: 59"><p>Here is a pic to get a ballpark idea of how this will work. Of course the main issue was to upgrade the glass fuse box to modern automotive fuses, add relays to take the heavy loads and shift them a bit and lastly take a load off the ignition/key switch and redistribute the load.</p><p></p><p>I have split the load so that the black 14 gauge wire coming from the key will go to buss #1 and take Fuse #1, 2, 3.</p><p>*Fuse #6 will get power from the ignition switch Green/Black (ACC wire)</p><p>*Fuse #7 will get power from the ignition switch Brown which is the parking lights same as original.</p><p>*Buss #1 will also be the power for the relay trigger (Relay 3) for buss #2 which will be get power from Relay 3 and a new 14 gauge wire coming from the battery (and 30 amp inline fuse).</p><p>*Buss #2 will power Fuse #4, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11.</p><p></p><p>The headlight will still be powered from the key, but by adding it to the normally closed Relay #5, it will only be powered if the engine is running (added an oil pressure switch). This will take the load off the battery when you first turn the key to ON.</p><p></p><p>The ignition coils will have power from the new lead for Buss #2. The fan will also be on Buss #2, but it now has a fuse whereas the fan otherwise is only fused from the main 30 amp fuse at the battery. I will be changing the fuses in the box to more 5 Amp fuses as required and pulling some of the 15 Amp fuses.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=10171&image_id=31427" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mcgovern61, post: 190462, member: 59"] Here is a pic to get a ballpark idea of how this will work. Of course the main issue was to upgrade the glass fuse box to modern automotive fuses, add relays to take the heavy loads and shift them a bit and lastly take a load off the ignition/key switch and redistribute the load. I have split the load so that the black 14 gauge wire coming from the key will go to buss #1 and take Fuse #1, 2, 3. *Fuse #6 will get power from the ignition switch Green/Black (ACC wire) *Fuse #7 will get power from the ignition switch Brown which is the parking lights same as original. *Buss #1 will also be the power for the relay trigger (Relay 3) for buss #2 which will be get power from Relay 3 and a new 14 gauge wire coming from the battery (and 30 amp inline fuse). *Buss #2 will power Fuse #4, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11. The headlight will still be powered from the key, but by adding it to the normally closed Relay #5, it will only be powered if the engine is running (added an oil pressure switch). This will take the load off the battery when you first turn the key to ON. The ignition coils will have power from the new lead for Buss #2. The fan will also be on Buss #2, but it now has a fuse whereas the fan otherwise is only fused from the main 30 amp fuse at the battery. I will be changing the fuses in the box to more 5 Amp fuses as required and pulling some of the 15 Amp fuses. [img]https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=10171&image_id=31427[/img] [/QUOTE]
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Lighting & Electrical
Rebuild '82 Standard Wire Harness and Fuse Box
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