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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
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SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
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PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
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SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Goldwing Customization & Tricks
Valve Covers (Polished brushed aluminum)
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<blockquote data-quote="Tomahawk" data-source="post: 15023" data-attributes="member: 171"><p>I have done some polishing on aluminum bike parts and the coating from the factory is nasty to get off. It will turn black under a power buffer and is harder to get off.</p><p></p><p>To remove the "clear coat" put on at the factory go to the grocery store and buy the cheapest oven cleaner you can find. Not easy off or any of the good one's but the cheap stuff as it has a wee bit of caustic soda in it. Spray the part down and let it foam up real good and soak for 15 to 20 minutes then rinse off. This will remove all but the worst of the old stuff making buffing easy. Tape up any seals gaskets or any other parts that you don't want the oven cleaner to attack </p><p></p><p>Then if you really want to make her shine use a buffing wheel on a bench grinder with polishing compound. I use the red compound but if need be you can use black or brown which is very aggressive. The red is not as agressive and should be your last step in the process. Don't mix your buffing wheels once used with a certain color compound only use it for that color to avoid contamination . Depending on how dedicated you are you can buff aluminum this way to a chrome like finish in a short amount of time. If you just want it clean an not so shiny a hand buff with autosol will work Okay</p><p></p><p>Then like I say a little carnuba and a microfiber cloth will keep it nice with minimal effort</p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p><p></p><p>Tom</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tomahawk, post: 15023, member: 171"] I have done some polishing on aluminum bike parts and the coating from the factory is nasty to get off. It will turn black under a power buffer and is harder to get off. To remove the "clear coat" put on at the factory go to the grocery store and buy the cheapest oven cleaner you can find. Not easy off or any of the good one's but the cheap stuff as it has a wee bit of caustic soda in it. Spray the part down and let it foam up real good and soak for 15 to 20 minutes then rinse off. This will remove all but the worst of the old stuff making buffing easy. Tape up any seals gaskets or any other parts that you don't want the oven cleaner to attack Then if you really want to make her shine use a buffing wheel on a bench grinder with polishing compound. I use the red compound but if need be you can use black or brown which is very aggressive. The red is not as agressive and should be your last step in the process. Don't mix your buffing wheels once used with a certain color compound only use it for that color to avoid contamination . Depending on how dedicated you are you can buff aluminum this way to a chrome like finish in a short amount of time. If you just want it clean an not so shiny a hand buff with autosol will work Okay Then like I say a little carnuba and a microfiber cloth will keep it nice with minimal effort Cheers. Tom [/QUOTE]
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Goldwing Customization & Tricks
Valve Covers (Polished brushed aluminum)
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