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Lostboy Steve
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25: OIL SEAL (10X25X7) 91207-580-003 $3.80
I think this is it.
Proper Course of Action for leaking head gasket?
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25: OIL SEAL (10X25X7) 91207-580-003 $3.80
I think this is it.
If you've got all 3 dimensional sizes, (ODxIDxhieght.) All you have to do is put them in a yahoo search engine.
Someone makes them for something, I was once told that '82 Honda Goldwing cam seals where not available.
Turns out they made the exact same seal for a Honda Accord or something like that, and real cheap as well!
eg, 29x23x7, I can't remember if that is accurate, but you get my point! :builder:
Someone makes them for something, I was once told that '82 Honda Goldwing cam seals where not available.
Turns out they made the exact same seal for a Honda Accord or something like that, and real cheap as well!
eg, 29x23x7, I can't remember if that is accurate, but you get my point! :builder:
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Lostboy Steve
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I think what I'm going to do, now that I've flushed out the engine with the heads on as best as I could, is put it all back together, including the radiator and used a vacuum filler to test for leaks. The vacuum filler that I have for automotive will work and pulls the whole system into a vacuum with a gauge. By doing this I can rule out any head-gasket leaks, or possibly discover them. It will also test the integrity of the cooling system components.
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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193509#p193509:22nlolpo said:
Can you post a photo or link to your vaccum filler for testing cooling systems. :thanks:
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Lostboy Steve
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Ansimp":10fi0irp said:
Sure! It doesn't come with adapters but any of the adapters from a standard pressure tester work. You could also do a pressure test if you don't have a vacuum kit. I just figure why pull heads if it isn't 100% necessary?
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Lostboy Steve
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Especially when my leakdown and compression test found no issues at all.
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When heated, a leak could open but so far it looks good.
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Lostboy Steve
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dan filipi":3j2uqe99 said:
That's true...
Hopefully 25~ in of mercury will be enough to force open any leak.
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I've never done this with an automotive cooling system, but I have done it thousands of times to remove moisture from refrigeration systems.
It is also a good indication of leakage, but it won't tell you "where" it is leaking from.
All you will see on the gauge (if it leaks) is the slow destruction of the vacuum you just created.
It is also a good indication of leakage, but it won't tell you "where" it is leaking from.
All you will see on the gauge (if it leaks) is the slow destruction of the vacuum you just created.
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Lostboy Steve
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chilidawg":24p0uof4 said:
Yeah it's basically the same as a/c. Again I don't think coolant was getting into combustion so there's only two places oil and coolant can mix... I think. I posted that oil seal previously from bb who get it directly through Honda.
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Very nice. Definitely eliminates air pockets when refilling cooling systems by filling under vaccum. :good:
I don't know that I've ever had air pockets doing it normally, filling it from the top of the radiator, then topping off the reservoir.
I mean, when you look at it, it's all pretty well designed to avoid that.
At least, I've never had overheating problems doing it that way, even under recent high blood pressure circumstances.
I mean, when you look at it, it's all pretty well designed to avoid that.
At least, I've never had overheating problems doing it that way, even under recent high blood pressure circumstances.
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I never have had air pockets either.
Radiator cap being the highest point in the system, air naturally bleeds out.
Radiator cap being the highest point in the system, air naturally bleeds out.
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That was a general statement not necessarily related to gold wings. Some new vehicles are really prone to air locks and can be a pita to fill correctly. :doh:
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Lostboy Steve
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Ansimp":a5p15auh said:
Yeah try bleeding out any Land Rover, it's a process without the vacuum filler. [emoji16]
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I've used my vacuum filler to fill my 1100 a few times. It makes it easier, and quicker to fill the system without the need to fire it up and get it hot. Not that doing it the old fashioned way doesn't work, it's just quicker, and less messy. :good:
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Lostboy Steve
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Here's the right side gl1000 cam and rockers. I know it's advised to use the rockers that match the cam. Still not sure if I'm going to do this, but maybe.
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First check the cam out there should be no three digit numbers on it ...if not it is the hotter 371 cam of the 75-77 oldwings....looks to be one ....to me it is best to mix parts ...if you used everything as it was there is little chance it would be tighter at all if there was any slop in it over the yrs ...when I do this I go with the best parts ...the 1100 cam carriers actually have better oiling capacity than the 1000s did ...so I use them with the 1000 cams ....hooch has 1100 heads and carriers and 75 cams....also the rocker shafts can be turned end for end and switched and brings new shaft to the rockers and tightens them up ...hooch was the quietest oldwing I'd ever had ..it made no noise at all ...anyway you get my point ..to me parts mixing is shade tree rebuilding it with old parts that work like new ...
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Lostboy Steve
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joedrum":lx1kg9rq said:
Thanks for the advice. I have to order cam seals if I do swap them because an oil leak wouldn't be fun.
Do any of you guys use engine ice or other propylene glycol based coolants?
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