Proper Course of Action for leaking head gasket?

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To me it all looks to be needed....with all that radiator goo in there ...that crap needs cleaned out...the block feed holes in these motors is not very big ...sheesh that goo looks like it could half stop the feed to the cylinder area.....the hole is like about 3/8" or slightly bigger maybe is all on each side...even head gaskets are good it seems to me this is best thing to do ...in my opinion...these motors are to small to have that crap in them and expect it to operate right and stay cool
 
joedrum":en1g4cqj said:
To me it all looks to be needed....with all that radiator goo in there ...that crap needs cleaned out...the block feed holes in these motors is not very big ...sheesh that goo looks like it could half stop the feed to the cylinder area.....the hole is like about 3/8" or slightly bigger maybe is all on each side...even head gaskets are good it seems to me this is best thing to do ...in my opinion...these motors are to small to have that crap in them and expect it to operate right and stay cool
Click to expand...

Well.... if I'm going to swap cams....


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If you are happy with the way it runs by all means leave it as is. If you are looking for a little more performance it is worth the effort.
 
slabghost":rfy0p9rw said:
If you are happy with the way it runs by all means leave it as is. If you are looking for a little more performance it is worth the effort.
Click to expand...

Eh, I've been riding a 77 550k for the last 6 years. Everything seems like a rocket ship to me.




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joedrum":2sgwr6nf said:
To me it all looks to be needed....with all that radiator goo in there ...that crap needs cleaned out...the block feed holes in these motors is not very big ...sheesh that goo looks like it could half stop the feed to the cylinder area.....the hole is like about 3/8" or slightly bigger maybe is all on each side...even head gaskets are good it seems to me this is best thing to do ...in my opinion...these motors are to small to have that crap in them and expect it to operate right and stay cool
Click to expand...

The thing about blue devil is that in my experience it sits in low spots which is why it never presented itself in the radiator or the fan switch that I replaced. The only thing that ever came out was fresh blue coolant, I assume the newer Honda variety. The waterpump is the lowest spot on these engines so that goo shouldn't be stuck in the heads. Also, that stuff is made to "find the hole" which I suspect was in the front cover so that's where it accumulated. The other thing about blue devil or any sealer is that it's only good until some unsuspecting schmuck (myself) flushes the system.

Again, in the automotive world I am that unsuspecting schmuck quite often, and now they caught me at home. Lol

You would be amazed how often I see that stuff in a system after the fact.


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You mentioned earlier the fan turns on at 1/2 then off at 1/4. That seems odd in my experience. Usually the fan cycles at higher temp. Leads me to believe maybe that gunk insulated the temp gauge sensor? And if it can do that, I'd think it could insulate heat from the cylinder causing hot spots so good idea to get all that crap flushed out completely.
 
dan filipi":3623zf5b said:
You mentioned earlier the fan turns on at 1/2 then off at 1/4. That seems odd in my experience. Usually the fan cycles at higher temp. Leads me to believe maybe that gunk insulated the temp gauge sensor? And if it can do that, I'd think it could insulate heat from the cylinder causing hot spots so good idea to get all that crap flushed out completely.
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Yeah a little over 1/2 it would kick on. I should have checked with a infrared gun but didn't bother because I didn't know this was even going to be an issue.


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mcgovern61":yk0l1y6n said:
How is that stuff flushed out (or can it be flushed?) :headscratch:
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What I do on cars and what I've tried to do here with varying degrees of success, is disconnect all the hoses and run a fairly sharp stream of hose water through each component over and over again. On the gl engine I removed the stat and the waterpump cover and flushed through the stat housing with a heavy stream of water.

I have tried the chemical flushes in the past and haven't found them to work all that better than the method listed above.

I think regardless of how I fix this, I'm going to first fill the cooling system with a mixture of water and flushing solution run it for a while, then let it cool down and drain. I'll do that a few times.

Honestly the oil mixing into the coolant may have been a saving grace here. It sounds crazy but the radiator cleaned up very nicely with a solution of simple green.
 
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What's the word on these seals? Is it possible it was mixing through here? There's these two rubber seals and then the large oring around it. Is that a failsafe? Seems like a lot of sealing happening there.


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Top pic is the rear water pump seal...and it is on it's last leg, if not already leaking.
wpbrngsl

wpbrngsl

Water pump(dis-assembled) bearings, with bad seals....they leaked a wee bit...


The lower pic is the seal for the water pump shaft, where it drives off of the oil pump. That seal keeps oil from leaking past it onto the rear of the water pump. I have yet to find that particular seal anywhere....the one on my 1100 looks just like yours.

gwwp8a

gwwp8a

Shifter centering spring



The larger o-ring is kinda a redundant seal for the front cover.
 
All I know is, mine was doing what yours is doing, and a Honda O ring/Gasket kit with a new Honda water pump fixed it all.

After, of course, I'd unsuccessfully tried to fix it by rebuilding the heads, twice.

You might also wanna check that the weep hole at the bottom of the water pump housing is not plugged up.

That's why I didn't get any advance notice of this problem, eg, leaking fluids.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193378#p193378:2g9w9b2m said:
dan filipi » Yesterday, 10:50 am[/url]":2g9w9b2m]
You mentioned earlier the fan turns on at 1/2 then off at 1/4. That seems odd in my experience. Usually the fan cycles at higher temp.
Click to expand...
That's about how my '81 cycles, has for decades.
 
chilidawg":22d7yk22 said:
All I know is, mine was doing what yours is doing, and a Honda O ring/Gasket kit with a new Honda water pump fixed it all.

After, of course, I'd unsuccessfully tried to fix it by rebuilding the heads, twice.

You might also wanna check that the weep hole at the bottom of the water pump housing is not plugged up.

That's why I didn't get any advance notice of this problem, eg, leaking fluids.
Click to expand...

I wonder if I can find just the waterpump seal and replace it. This waterpump is nice and tight I'd hate to just discard it. 125$ for a new one is a bit steep for me right now.


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I just noticed something that I wish for you guys to confirm. Looking back at my front cover, is it true only 83-84 have the neutral switch there? If that's the case, someone already swapped engines with my 83 parts bike. Again bike in question is an 82.


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AApple":17fp47x1 said:
Top pic is the rear water pump seal...and it is on it's last leg, if not already leaking.
wpbrngsl

wpbrngsl

Water pump(dis-assembled) bearings, with bad seals....they leaked a wee bit...


The lower pic is the seal for the water pump shaft, where it drives off of the oil pump. That seal keeps oil from leaking past it onto the rear of the water pump. I have yet to find that particular seal anywhere....the one on my 1100 looks just like yours.

gwwp8a

gwwp8a

Shifter centering spring



The larger o-ring is kinda a redundant seal for the front cover.
Click to expand...

I found the seal on bike bandit, search under oilpump.


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