1200 into a 1000 chopped

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My valve is commonly referred to as a vise grip. My tank had two tubes coming out the back. By blowing air in you can see the one on the right is the overflow for the cap area. The one on the left was a return line, I think, because the fuel pump on the Meansteak would have its own feed. I reached in and pried the return over to where I could get a hack saw blade in and cut it off. I then bent it down to about an inch off the bottom of the tank. I need to take the tank off and weld in a bung for a shutoff valve and reserve. I can't find one inline that is suitable.
 
I bumped my air jets up to 90 on the main and idle jets. It's better, but now cackles on deceleration between 5500 and 4500. I might try a 100 air , but might try opening the cutoff a bit more. I left a red light this morning easily, on the other side of the intersection I opened it up and spun the back tire big time. There was a slight puckering...lol
 
Superskypilot has started a new build. I forgot what it's called, but he hasn't posted for a few weeks. I know the bgirl was for sale. Don't know if he sold it.
 
Still trying to get mine right. I think I had it pretty perfect, but noticed I had s bad leak at the base of the intake filter. Fixed the leak- wrecked the jetting. I am trying to just change one jet at a time to see what truly works. It's so tempting to change a couple, but you never know how each affects it. I have it close, but no cigar. I have been reducing the air jets in my primary and it has shifted my missing to lower rpm, and gotten rid of most of the deceleration backfiring. I was up to a 150 air jet with my 70 primary jet, but down to 130 now, and tomorrow I'll try it back to stock 120 air jet. Main is still 130 with a 90 air jet. Acceleration feels good and plug color is good. It's just my midrange that is off. If the 120 air doesn't help it, I may try a washer under the needle? I don't feel confident in messing with the needle shape.

Any advice welcome. If I don't take your advice, just tell yourself, "He's stupid."
 
Seems to me if you have good low end and good accel and good mixture under continuous load, then whatever affects mid range is what to go after.

You might have already said that so don't mind me, just thinking out load.
 
That's an idea Slabghost. I was thinking of running it for fifteen minutes straight right at that speed, then shut it off while moving and doing a plug chop. If they were whiter, I'd know it's Len, but I'm still not sure which circuit its on. I thought it was the secondary circuit since it was at 4500 rpm but since it came down to 2500-3500 by enriching the primary, I'm thinking it's still the primary. The primary is a contributor still even when the slides lift.

Air jets are pretty easy to swap.
 
well all i got to say is ...stock carbs are way to complicated ...to make them self adjusting to motor needs .... ive never seen one rack perform completely through the rpm zone evenly like it was claimed they can ...in fact they give huge swings in charge make up.....

there is no doutb in my mind ...that the stock carbs are the absolute worse part of a oldwing set setup from honda with ignition second in line....

cv carbs are great in concept for a single cylinder motor ... as it provides what the motors vacume produces .... but when you add clylinders to motor ...it get virtually impossible to get the same equal like gas charge that a 4 cylinder needs to stay even and consistant as motor needs ...cv carbs are still treating each cylinder as a indivisual motor ... and can make the motor stumble and run uneaven in places through the rpm as eric was saying ...to me just a bad thing to do on a oldwing boxer set up as the motors are so well balanced that off running seems to show itself big time ....and as eric says ...you play with one thing and it makes differences another place ..and its dog chasing tail syndrome ..... good luck eric ...im pulling for you :popcorn:
 
Woof woof. Interesting comment. The neighbors asked me to watch their dog during a wedding for them. It got its tail caught in a recliner and yanked it off. The poor thing has no tail but still chases it. Must be wondering where it's hiding. I feel just like him. Tried the 120 air jet, made it worse. Back to a 130 air jet in the primary and bumped the main air jet up ten to 100, made it worse again. So back to the 90 air jet in the main. While I have it like this, I think I'll try the rag around the air cleaner trick. Next is a washer under the needle and after that I think the main needs to go up. Plug color isn't bad still, just cackling at midrange rpm a little, which for extended driving can't be good. The other factor in all this is it's much warmer today.

I gave away my VW 2bbl adapter and weber carb to a friend with a bug. Starting to think I should have kept it.
 
Tried a few of the other combos, finally swapped in an 80 air jet withe 130 main and a washer under the needle. It ran pretty close, but the midrange miss seemed to be jerky, so I gave it a sync and it seems pretty close now. I'll put some miles on to see. I might pull the washers again. Woof woof where's my tail?
 
if it's close now after the synch.Go back and give the synch screws about a 1/8 turn in. See if that doesn't cure it.
 
Found a loose wire into a spark plug cap. Probably wasn't helping. If it has to jump a gap there and then again at the electrode, not only is weakened, but timing is way late.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=153968#p153968:217cik62 said:
ekvh » Sat Jul 18, 2015 12:12 pm[/url]":217cik62]
Found a loose wire into a spark plug cap. Probably wasn't helping. If it has to jump a gap there and then again at the electrode, not only is weakened, but timing is way late.
I had that problem with my GS750. Ended up buying 4 new NGK plug caps. You can measure the total resistance across each coil, from cap to cap and should get about the same for each coil. Will be in the 20k to 30k ohms range

Drove me crazy with that bike; would run OK for awhile then start missing on 1 cylinder. Took the carbs off and checked them many times.

Good luck
Brian
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=153970#p153970:17x8wv6o said:
canuckxxxx » Sun Jul 19, 2015 6:27 am[/url]":17x8wv6o]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=153968#p153968:17x8wv6o said:
ekvh » Sat Jul 18, 2015 12:12 pm[/url]":17x8wv6o]
Found a loose wire into a spark plug cap. Probably wasn't helping. If it has to jump a gap there and then again at the electrode, not only is weakened, but timing is way late.
I had that problem with my GS750. Ended up buying 4 new NGK plug caps. You can measure the total resistance across each coil, from cap to cap and should get about the same for each coil. Will be in the 20k to 30k ohms range

Drove me crazy with that bike; would run OK for awhile then start missing on 1 cylinder. Took the carbs off and checked them many times.

Good luck

Brian
Nothing like trying to fix the part that's not broken (carbs) :doh: but it sure is good when you finally find the actual problem :salute:
 

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