'84 1200 engine for a '82 GW

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id guess gas like v said more than oil ....but thats really just a guess ....my opinion is 3000miles did this ...the before pic looks like great burn .....i will say brian after dealing with hooch ..it apparent that the plugs will be the first thing that gets right ...but that dosnt mean its right totally inside cylinder just plug ...

to me theres no doubt it running richer than with stock carb set up ...the SCC and a epa dft carb is no walk in the park ....seems your motor inside is sort of proof of that ....and it runs well from what you have posted about it ....

im not sure why a car motor needs such a huge idle circuit ...i can guess its load as a car is 4x the weight of a oldwing ...and motors are not as aggressive in cams and all ...dont run air conditioner ..power steering .....alternator that charges hard at idle and so on .....but this is just guessing ... seems on hooch everything had to go backwards from car set up...idle circuit had to be modded out and the jetting after that primary up some and them secondary up again bigtime to get full rpm range

but we both know my air is different than 22-22 you have ...i hate to admit it but this looks to be and SCC caused event
 
Remember reading something about fuel seeping into your engine down into the oil. :read: Hence turn your petcock off any time you turn ignition off, also guessing this must be where the 14lbs of pressure on carbs came from, for needle & seat to be in spec. :headscratch: Wouldn't take much to strip oil film off of bore, & start up on a dry cylinder's not good. :nea: On my old Triumph gas tank was over the motor, gravity, volume, & gas cap's were the determining factors in determining fuel pressure, like most of all the others. Most gas cap's had a vent that seemed to keep pressure somewhat controlled, & if looked after properly, everything worked well. :yes:
 
well denver with SCC and oldwing it rather hard for them to leak gas in motor like stock carbs do ...theres only one float and the parts are much tougher than stock carbs have ...this is more a idle circuit that just to big ..and beyond the jetting range to help ...completely different thing altogether from the stock carbs problems of leaking gas ...

to me if heat makes your car carb work better ...then its a sign of being way off ..in my opinion ...especially if its not really icing type conditions in the air ...and it runs better ....
 
Agreed, still on the left side, side stand lets it lean left. Not saying this is or is not what the stain is from, :nea: just wondering like everybody else. :headscratch:
 
That black crap on the pistons is wet and oily and does not smell like gas at all. So pretty sure that it is burnt-on oil. My idle mix is pretty close to right-on IMO.

If this engine was a horse someone would have shot it by now :Awe: :cheeky:

Brian
 
Here it is almost a year later. In the mean time I put new Chevy Tracker rings in the 1100 engine and put it back in my '82 and have run it like that all summer with no problems.

The 1200 engine has been under my work bench all this time. Riding season is almost over and I am faced with 5 months of winter so I figured why not take this 1200 engine apart and see what I have. If the insides are all worn out I will get rid of it. I need a break from seeing Donald Trump and Hilary Clinton on every channel on TV. :rant:

A lesson I learned from reringing the 1100 engine is that I need a nice big, sturdy work table that will absorb a lot of oil. Instead of on my hands and knees on the garage floor. So I built this 3' x 3' table that is about 2' high.
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Then I went to work cleaning the engine before taking it apart. :music2:
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Brian
 
I swear I drained all of the oil out. Why then, when I took the front and rear covers off, did a bunch more oil spill out onto my nice new table. It has now been christened.

Removed all the bolts that hold the crankcase halves together. Checked 3 times against the 1200 manual to make sure all bolts were out. The cases separated pretty easily. There are 2 points at the rear of the case joint where a wood chisel can be carefully tapped in to separate the case halves.
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Once inside, I removed the transmission counter-shaft and covered the rest of the transmission and primary chain cavity with plastic bags. Removed all pistons, took their rings off and put each in a numbered plastic container. Removed crankshaft.

All bearing surfaces looked very good.
This is typical for all big end bearings
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In fact I am wondering if the big end bearings had been changed by some PO because the green paint on the sides of the bearing shells is very fresh looking.
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Brian
 
Here's the main bearing caps. I think they look pretty good.
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Using Plastigage I measured the main bearing clearances and #1 and #3 big end bearing clearances:

front main bearing .0017"
middle .002"
rear .0015"

#1 Big end bearing .0018"
#3 Big end bearing .0015"

To measure the big end bearings I put the crank back into the right side crankcase, slid the #1 and #3 pistons (without rings) into the cylinders and installed the big end bearing caps.

I didn't check #2 and #4 big ends because I couldn't think of way to do it with the crank in the block. I could slide #2 and #4 pistons into the right side cylinders and measure clearance even though they would not be on their normal crank journals. Any suggestions on this would be appreciated.

Brian
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=183352#p183352:3a9obicf said:
Rednaxs60 » Sat Nov 05, 2016 5:34 pm[/url]":3a9obicf]
Brian - good winter project. Will be following this as nothing lasts forever and first hand info is great.

Good luck.

Cheers
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Thanks Rednax60. I can use all the luck I can get. :BigGrin:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=183357#p183357:z773sti5 said:
Rednaxs60 » Sat Nov 05, 2016 6:01 pm[/url]":z773sti5]
Brian - do you have the service manuals for the 1200? If not send me a PM with your email and I'll send what I can via wetransfer.

Cheers
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Thanks for that offer. I am looking at the ones in the Gallery section of this site. There is a Haynes and a Honda manual so I should be good.
 
So, based on the good condition of the bottom end I have gone ahead and ordered a set of rings from RockAuto. These are the same rings I put in the 1100 except a different oversize.

A GL1200 has a bore of 75.5mm. A 2000 Chevy Tracker 1.6L has a bore of 75mm. At first glance it would appear that .5mm oversize would be the ones to order. But, with my 1100 which has a bore of 75mm, I ordered standard size rings (no oversize) and found the end gaps were high for my liking (>.010"). So I sent them back and got the .5mm oversize and cut them down to get the end gaps I wanted. So this time I have ordered the 1mm oversize rings. These are the rings
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Thanks for the encouragement Dan and Joe. :thanks: I must say that I am pleasantly surprised at the condition of the bearings. Hopefully a new set of rings will make it a good running 1200. :moped:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=183386#p183386:jkzdn374 said:
dan filipi » Mon Nov 07, 2016 3:19 am[/url]":jkzdn374]
Thanks for doing this groundwork. The info will help someone later for sure.
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+1 :good:
 
So I probably won't get those rings until the end of the week so I thought I would go ahead and hone the cylinders. The way I am doing it is to leave some of the stuff like the transmission main shaft gear and the primary chain tensioner in place and cover them by stuffing plastic bags over and around them.
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The main bearing saddles in the right side case I sealed off with duct tape (I'm Canadian eh). First I cleaned the saddles with laquer thinner and then carefully ran the duct tape. Workmanship is the key here; make sure the tape sticks all the way along the saddle surface and up onto the flat parts, then trim the sides.
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On the top end of the block I followed the same method and covered the tops of the cylinders with duct tape and cut out the cylinder holes with a sharp Exacto knife.
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I set the crankcase halves up on the wood blocks and put a pan under to catch the Varsol I use to wash the cylinders down as I hone. It's handy to have the Varsol in a can with a paint brush so you can pull the hone out every 20 or 30 up-down stroke to wash the cylinder down. After about 100 strokes wipe the cylinder down with a clean rag and look closely with a strong light. To get a 45º cross-hatch you have to run the drill fairly slow and move up and down smoothly.
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This is what it looks like. Any of you guys with experience please comment on the honing. I can easily do more if needed.

Brian
 

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