Front Fork leak

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+1 on the springs. The Rats Nest only had 27k on it when I got it. Now with another 13k miles both front and rear springs have sagged. New rear progressives made a huge difference ( easy to put on the centre stand now) and I will be changing the fronts soon ( it wallows or pumps in high speed cornering).
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=192883#p192883:3b5njm0q said:
D-50Dave » Yesterday, 8:55 pm[/url]":3b5njm0q]
So I found seals and dust covers for $20. Do I need anything else? Do I want to swap out my 36 year old springs? Inquiring minds want to know! Thanx, Dave
I have rebuilt many forks. more front than rear. you can get a set of new progressives around $80 ( these are the springs that will fir inside the fork and replace the stock springs. Also, use a heavier oil weight. you will need to change the slider bushings as well and the main fork bushing since the teflon will be worn off by now. I would definitely use the tutorials here or the one on goldwingdocs to do this since its your first time. After i did one or two, it became 2nd nature. The hard part is spending the cash for all the parts but overall, should not cost you more than$150 for both forks.

P.s. the stock springs will be in 2 pieces, the new progressives is just one spring, so don't be alarmed when you receive those.
 
I have a 1980 . Your 81 should have a slider bushing. Go to bikebandit.com and double check. It should have one.
 
The fork bushing will have the teflon on the inside. It will fit inside the fork housing. Actually your old one will have to be pulled out by pulling on the internal fork leg and this must be done per instructions on goldwingdocs tutorial. The slider bushing will have teflon on the outside and it fits over the internal telescope fork , towards the bottom which moves up and down inside the fork housing itself.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=192947#p192947:3mrv5y0v said:
D-50Dave » Yesterday, 9:14 pm[/url]":3mrv5y0v]
No slider bushing on BikeBandit.com. (unless I'm missing something)
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/198 ... 7#sch22244

There is one, I just checked. I had my vocab off a bit.

Its called a fork pipe sleeve item # 51415-463-003 this is # 11 on the blueprint diagram

#10 is called the fork pipe bushing , item # 51414-463-003 This is the one that will take some force by pulling the internal fork tube up and down to pry the old one loose.

Be very methodical when rebuilding and don't have any interruptions, meaning don't walk away halfway done and then return because I did that once and messed up.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193047#p193047:28h63gt4 said:
D-50Dave » 36 minutes ago[/url]":28h63gt4]
Time for "Stupid Question of the Week". Is the Seal Set #51490-MB9-782 for one fork or both? In other words, do I order 1 or 2? Thanx, Dave

You order 1 set which would include 2 seals. I always get the "all balls" set, it very reasonably priced which includes the seals and the dust caps.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193048#p193048:3e1k2mke said:
made2care » Yesterday, 10:06 pm[/url]":3e1k2mke]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193047#p193047:3e1k2mke said:
D-50Dave » 36 minutes ago[/url]":3e1k2mke]
Time for "Stupid Question of the Week". Is the Seal Set #51490-MB9-782 for one fork or both? In other words, do I order 1 or 2? Thanx, Dave

You order 1 set which would include 2 seals. I always get the "all balls" set, it very reasonably priced which includes the seals and the dust caps.
Thanx. :good:
 
Something i forgot to mention. Be careful removing the fork cap since it is under pressure. You can fashion a tool from 2 X 4's if you want. Also, its always interesting to see if the previous owner has gone in and replaced the stock springs with progressive ones, so wait to order the springs until the forks are apart. There is a high probability that you have virgin forks though.
 
Don't use any special set up myself :nea: but several layers of cloth, (towel's work well) :good: put fork on a piece of carpet, push down with one hand spin the tube with the other. :thank_you: Take the screw in the bottom loose first, :yes: it's held in place by the spring's pressure, & will not likely unscrew without it. :heat:
 
I fashioned a tool due to safety and practicality reasons. There is also a chance you might cross thread the cap upon install and the clamp I built, provides easy steady pressure when installing cap. One could man handle it but I'm doing this so often, it's senseless to not have a tool.
 
My tool is a 2x3 notched to fit the cap. Remove the air hose, use a wrench to loosen the caps and I stand over the forks on a small step while pushing down with the notched 2x3 and no popping out of the spring plus it is easy to get enough pressure to get the cap back on with the new springs.
 

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