Front Fork leak

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I guess I did it the hard way? Stood on the pegs with a 6" extension, socket and drive, seemed easy. Maybe I was younger and stupid :music: :smilie_happy:
 
In order to build the forks, they have to be removed from the bike, hence the tool. Too me it makes no sense to just leave forks on bike, put progressive springs in, change fork oil and call it good. There are bushings, seals , etc that should be replaced to get forks back to optimal performance. Just my 2 cents .
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193126#p193126:2364b0fa said:
made2care » Fri Jul 14, 2017 12:47 pm[/url]":2364b0fa]
In order to build the forks, they have to be removed from the bike, hence the tool. Too me it makes no sense to just leave forks on bike, put progressive springs in, change fork oil and call it good. There are bushings, seals , etc that should be replaced to get forks back to optimal performance. Just my 2 cents .

The fork seals and dust seals can be replaced easily without removing the upper tubes from the bike.

Put the bike on the center stand and support the front of the motor so the bike doesn't drop when you remove the top nut.

If you have air shocks, release the pressure, remove the top nut very carefully (as said elsewhere), remove the Allen headed shoulder bolt from the bottom of the shock, and pull out the springs.

There are excellent descriptions on here on how to remove the bushings, seals, etc. You can make a seal installation tool out of Sched 40 PVC, but I elected to buy the metal tool ($45?) because the plastic would crumble when you get too rough with it.
:builder:
 
Well, this weekend is it. For my recent birthday, my family gave me a "chore-free" weekend and this coming weekend is it. Job One is the front fork leak. I have springs, seals, & bushings. I don't have "smart hands", any previous experience, or the good sense God gave a gopher. What I do have is the resources of this site, the fearlessness to try something I've never tried before, and the stubbornness to not quit. (even when maybe I should) Cover me, I'm goin' in. :cool:
 
The good people here have you covered.

p.s. When you have completed them, I wouldn't put any air in, if yours has air valves. I did that years ago, wasn't paying attention and blew the seals. I think it suggests a few pounds but the progressive springs are beefy enough, you won't need air. I aslo went with a heavier weight oil since i prefer the firmer feel.
Good luck :music:
 
Reference "fork oil". I use ATF (Dextron III or IV) in my bikes and haven't had any problem with leaks or handling. I also run 3 to 4 PSI in the front forks to firm up the suspension.
However, "To each their own" as the guy with the weed-eater, rubber chicken, and bottle of Mazola said. :whip:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194559#p194559:294seq50 said:
PurpleGL1200I » Yesterday, 8:54 am[/url]":294seq50]
... However, "To each their own" as the guy with the weed-eater, rubber chicken, and bottle of Mazola said. :whip:
:shock:
 
In for a dime, in for a dollar. I'm doing the forks while still mounted on the bike. I have removed tire, fender, cross-brace; I have drained the oil, removed the bottom hex-bolt, snap-ring & shim washer; I have removed the top cap for the springs. The lower half of the forks move up and down freely, but how do I remove them from the upper half, to replace the seal & bushings? Thank you for your support, Dave
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193054#p193054:3q51ffgx said:
D-50Dave » July 12th, 2017, 5:49 am[/url]":3q51ffgx]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193048#p193048:3q51ffgx said:
made2care » Yesterday, 10:06 pm[/url]":3q51ffgx]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=193047#p193047:3q51ffgx said:
D-50Dave » 36 minutes ago[/url]":3q51ffgx]
Time for "Stupid Question of the Week". Is the Seal Set #51490-MB9-782 for one fork or both? In other words, do I order 1 or 2? Thanx, Dave

You order 1 set which would include 2 seals. I always get the "all balls" set, it very reasonably priced which includes the seals and the dust caps.
Thanx. :good:
Ran into a snag. It looked like there were 2 seals in my part #51490-MB9-782, but it was a seal and a dust cap. Was going to the dealer but, Closed Sunday. :head bang:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194634#p194634:i8jl0uuw said:
D-50Dave » Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:00 am[/url]":i8jl0uuw]
It appears I should knock the lower half off "slide-hammer" style. When I add the oil back in, through the top before putting the top caps on? According to what I read on this thread...
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=63
... I should use 290cc of 20 weight oil.

I was lead to believe it was 190cc's, that's what's in mine and it works fine.

I used ATF.

Great link, thanks for that. Take a look at his "motorcycle menagerie", his history is very close to what mine was.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194639#p194639:3lwh6exv said:
chilidawg » Today, 10:41 am[/url]":3lwh6exv]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194634#p194634:3lwh6exv said:
D-50Dave » Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:00 am[/url]":3lwh6exv]
It appears I should knock the lower half off "slide-hammer" style. When I add the oil back in, through the top before putting the top caps on? According to what I read on this thread...
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=63
... I should use 290cc of 20 weight oil.
Take a look at his "motorcycle menagerie", his history is very close to what mine was.
Not able to follow where you drifted. :blush:
 
So, this weekend we're back into this way-too-long project. (I've been away on vacation the past 2 weekends) I get the seals pressed back into place, C-clips installed, bottom screw back in and time to wrestle with the top caps. I found my 30mm 12-point socket worked and after some failed efforts, got both of them in. :yahoo: And then I realize that I hadn't added the oil. :swoon: Off come the hard-to-install caps and off to the store to get oil. I'm decompressing before going at the caps...AGAIN! :head bang:
 
They were, relatively speaking. Caps on, air hose connected, choke pull in place; the top is done. Wheel on and mounting this aftermarket cross brace by Markland. Does this replace a stock piece or is there no brace usually?
DSC02112.JPG

(I think I have it on backwards)
 

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