No surgery tomorrow. Just meeting with Dr. To see when there going to do surgery.
GL1100 RATTLING NOISE
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slabghost
Well-known member
Explore all your options before getting cut open. The older we get the longer it takes to heal.
pistolpete
Active member
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138357#p138357:2agwulcs said:
Good advice!
Pistol
best of all luck in having to deal with the diseased healthcare system
Question on water pump seal kit.
I see a lot listed on ebay for $24.00 but states Mechanical Seal not included in kit.
Then there is OEM Water pump Gasket Kit from Honda dealer that is $53.00. all the following included.
all the gaskets, seals, Orings and sealing washers you need when replacing the water pump on a 1975-1979 GL1000 and 1980-1983 GL1100. These parts are original Honda parts. The kit includes 11396-371-306 water pump gasket, 91305-426-003 cap o-ring, 91305-KT7-003 sm pump o-ring, 91356-706-000 lg pump o-ring, (2) 91312-371-013 trans cover o-rings, 11391-371-306 trans cover gasket, 91207-580-003 oil pump seal, 91345-580-000 lg oil pump o-ring, 91333-KE5-003 sm oil pump o-ring, 91352-SA5-952 case dowel o-ring, 91333-KE5-003 case dowel o-ring, 91319-300-000 case dowel o-ring, (3) 90441-028-010 sealing washers, 90481-463-000 sealing washer, 94109-14000 sealing washer. Which when I break each part down is about $44.00.
Question is which would I need to replace water pump. Because if i'm going in there because of oil/water leaking at weep hole i'm just going to replace pump while in there, plus replace thermostat and all O-rings on water tubes plus pull heads off and replace valve seats.
What do you all think.
Oh by the way won't know till Friday when my surgery is going to be. Dr. said 4-6 weeks out of work.
I see a lot listed on ebay for $24.00 but states Mechanical Seal not included in kit.
Then there is OEM Water pump Gasket Kit from Honda dealer that is $53.00. all the following included.
all the gaskets, seals, Orings and sealing washers you need when replacing the water pump on a 1975-1979 GL1000 and 1980-1983 GL1100. These parts are original Honda parts. The kit includes 11396-371-306 water pump gasket, 91305-426-003 cap o-ring, 91305-KT7-003 sm pump o-ring, 91356-706-000 lg pump o-ring, (2) 91312-371-013 trans cover o-rings, 11391-371-306 trans cover gasket, 91207-580-003 oil pump seal, 91345-580-000 lg oil pump o-ring, 91333-KE5-003 sm oil pump o-ring, 91352-SA5-952 case dowel o-ring, 91333-KE5-003 case dowel o-ring, 91319-300-000 case dowel o-ring, (3) 90441-028-010 sealing washers, 90481-463-000 sealing washer, 94109-14000 sealing washer. Which when I break each part down is about $44.00.
Question is which would I need to replace water pump. Because if i'm going in there because of oil/water leaking at weep hole i'm just going to replace pump while in there, plus replace thermostat and all O-rings on water tubes plus pull heads off and replace valve seats.
What do you all think.
Oh by the way won't know till Friday when my surgery is going to be. Dr. said 4-6 weeks out of work.
pistolpete
Active member
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138392#p138392:2f81iyr9 said:
Allen,
All of the orings and seals should be replaced. Including the water pump drive shaft lip seal. You only want to do this once so spend a few bucks more and get the OE parts.
Pete
You only need the mechanical seal if you're rebuilding your original water pump. If you're simply replacing it, the $24 seal kit will work fine.
To clarify my last post, I agree with Pete - all seals and O-rings should be replaced. The mechanical seal is not included in either kit, because it is used only if rebuilding the water pump. Unless you're also replacing the bearings and shaft seals, and have access to a press with adapters, it's not recommended to rebuild the water pump.
I've used both seal kits, aftermarket and OEM, and have had no problems with either one.
I've used both seal kits, aftermarket and OEM, and have had no problems with either one.
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=138404#p138404:3v2cu44o said:
All of that is good to hear, if it deems necessary at some time, thank you.
Ok i though i would keep this all in one post.
What all should i check out on motor while i have it on work bench. This is the motor that had the bent valve which i have cleaned heads replaced intake & exhaust valve & seals and waiting for warm weather to go out and work on. I clean the bottom oil screen which was spot less when i removed it. Now one question i do have is on this bike which was rattleing like hell. I notice when removing motor that somebody had Both nuts on the top side of the clutch adjustment on the motor end, i took and put one nut on bottom and on top and adjusted that end as far as i could and had ALOT of play at handle grip, adjust what little there was on grip end and it did not change play any. So i take it that the cable as strengh out. Now when i got motor on bench and looked at clutch adjustment on rear of motor by turning set screw in to touch and back it out a little. There was No screwing set screw in it was all ready touching something in there. So i didn't get any adjustment on clutch end. Is there anything else i should check out before installing heads and putting back together. I'm going to replace therm stat,radiator hoses and the water tube O-rings which had the 2 leaks. I figure the stator i will not know till i get motor running correct. And if i have to drop motor i will no big deal there. I know i'm jumping all over the place. Because i got the other GL1100 motor out laying on floor in shed waiting to drop heads clean valves install new seals and other things to.
What all should i check out on motor while i have it on work bench. This is the motor that had the bent valve which i have cleaned heads replaced intake & exhaust valve & seals and waiting for warm weather to go out and work on. I clean the bottom oil screen which was spot less when i removed it. Now one question i do have is on this bike which was rattleing like hell. I notice when removing motor that somebody had Both nuts on the top side of the clutch adjustment on the motor end, i took and put one nut on bottom and on top and adjusted that end as far as i could and had ALOT of play at handle grip, adjust what little there was on grip end and it did not change play any. So i take it that the cable as strengh out. Now when i got motor on bench and looked at clutch adjustment on rear of motor by turning set screw in to touch and back it out a little. There was No screwing set screw in it was all ready touching something in there. So i didn't get any adjustment on clutch end. Is there anything else i should check out before installing heads and putting back together. I'm going to replace therm stat,radiator hoses and the water tube O-rings which had the 2 leaks. I figure the stator i will not know till i get motor running correct. And if i have to drop motor i will no big deal there. I know i'm jumping all over the place. Because i got the other GL1100 motor out laying on floor in shed waiting to drop heads clean valves install new seals and other things to.
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If I am understanding you correctly Allen I feel that you could have some form of clutch problem so I would be inclined to remove the engine so that you can have a good look at the clutch. While you are in there you can observe the stator windings and their condition. You can test the stator as per this post.
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=8409&hilit=Stator+testing&start=0#p125022
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=8409&hilit=Stator+testing&start=0#p125022
I have both the the motors out of the bikes. I'm going to pull back cover off to check the clutch disc while i got it apart.
slabghost
Well-known member
Wouldn't hurt to remove the clutch plates and check their condition. If a few are worn that can cause issues.
Ok nice day out today so i figure i tear some more things apart. Clutch .
book spec. are
clutch springs
standard 35.5mm (1.40")
service limit 34.2mm 1.35"
my are all 1.37" in so i would figure they are ok.
disk thickness
standard 3.42-3.58mm ,135" -.141"
service limit 3.20mm 0.1.26".
my disc range from the following 1.37" -1.38"
so i would take it there ok.
clutch plates had no warpage using .01" feeler gauge. Are the friction disc supports to have (i will call it cork) sticking out so on the disc. Because my disc are completly flat with no cork sticking out to bite anything.
You think i should replace bearing 96100-62030-00 I see its only about $6.00.
What all do you think. What else should i check while i'm just tearing things apart , before i start putting back together.
book spec. are
clutch springs
standard 35.5mm (1.40")
service limit 34.2mm 1.35"
my are all 1.37" in so i would figure they are ok.
disk thickness
standard 3.42-3.58mm ,135" -.141"
service limit 3.20mm 0.1.26".
my disc range from the following 1.37" -1.38"
so i would take it there ok.
clutch plates had no warpage using .01" feeler gauge. Are the friction disc supports to have (i will call it cork) sticking out so on the disc. Because my disc are completly flat with no cork sticking out to bite anything.
You think i should replace bearing 96100-62030-00 I see its only about $6.00.
What all do you think. What else should i check while i'm just tearing things apart , before i start putting back together.
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Check the surfaces where the clutch disks slide in and out on the clutch hub are smooth with no 'ridges' which could cause a clutch plate to not move freely.
Prayers that they find a way around surgery, but if so the surgery will be minor and recovery rapid.
Before you decide to reinstall all this clutch stuff on account of it all being "within tolerances" be aware that for less than a $100 you can buy brand new heavy duty springs and friction plates.
Think about the headache if they ain't quite up to what you expect.
Secondly, that center cush-drive plate, forget how thick it is, just shake it, move it around between thumbs and forefingers, if it feels loose around the rivets, it's toast.
I ain't trying to sell you stuff, but I got a good one here with a great spider and bearing, in an entire clutch, that I'd be lucky to end up with $30 for on Ebay, (your plain plates are most likely okay but you can have those too) you can have all the irreplaceable stuff for just the cost of shipping.
But don't skimp on friction plates and springs.
I don't want to be telling you, I told you so!
Think about the headache if they ain't quite up to what you expect.
Secondly, that center cush-drive plate, forget how thick it is, just shake it, move it around between thumbs and forefingers, if it feels loose around the rivets, it's toast.
I ain't trying to sell you stuff, but I got a good one here with a great spider and bearing, in an entire clutch, that I'd be lucky to end up with $30 for on Ebay, (your plain plates are most likely okay but you can have those too) you can have all the irreplaceable stuff for just the cost of shipping.
But don't skimp on friction plates and springs.
I don't want to be telling you, I told you so!
Well wasted alot of time on this motor so far. If you recall in first post I had a video of it rattling... Torn it down 2 bent valves. Great got all winter to took it right and clean,replace valve seals,and laped valve's. Cleaned carbs. Replaced stat,timing belts check clutch disc which were in service limit. check pulse generator everything was moving freely,new fuel filter,lines, water hoses. new spark plugs.
Well started to put motor back in bike sunday and I finish it today.
I only put headers on it for exhaust because I was excited to hear this thing purr like a kitten. At least thats the way the other GL1100 ran when I used this set of carbs.
Well I push the start button and it started right up and ran all most the same as before I removed it from bike. So to me it was a waste of time and money.
Here's the deal sounds like valve tapping,(recheck valve gap .04 intake .05" exhaust. Pulled each plug wire off while running and you could hear a different in engine on each cylinder EXCEPT #1. #1 I could not hear any different in sound of motor. I pulled spark plugs which were new and put another new set in. I have posted pictures of plugs. #1 little gas smell,#3,2,4 carbon. I even took #1 spark plug wire off spark and laided another plug on engine and plugs it into #1 spark plug wire and you could see a light spark for like 30 seconds running another spark would come and go. I even which wire connects at the spark units and still same. I switch out regulator/rectifier from other bike and a little less missing. But still not right.
Now here another great one. I was so piss. I took headers off exhaust and same. Then I took the full set of exhaust pipes with mufflers and hook them up and started bike and this video is the way it sounds now a lot worst. The rattle sound sounds like its coming from back of engine which was not there before the complete exhaust was put on.
I got to get a compression tester and check compression.
One more note the spark plug wires are just car spark plug wires and the rubber end for plug.
Read more: https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic ... z3WZm8ExGp
Well started to put motor back in bike sunday and I finish it today.
I only put headers on it for exhaust because I was excited to hear this thing purr like a kitten. At least thats the way the other GL1100 ran when I used this set of carbs.
Well I push the start button and it started right up and ran all most the same as before I removed it from bike. So to me it was a waste of time and money.
Here's the deal sounds like valve tapping,(recheck valve gap .04 intake .05" exhaust. Pulled each plug wire off while running and you could hear a different in engine on each cylinder EXCEPT #1. #1 I could not hear any different in sound of motor. I pulled spark plugs which were new and put another new set in. I have posted pictures of plugs. #1 little gas smell,#3,2,4 carbon. I even took #1 spark plug wire off spark and laided another plug on engine and plugs it into #1 spark plug wire and you could see a light spark for like 30 seconds running another spark would come and go. I even which wire connects at the spark units and still same. I switch out regulator/rectifier from other bike and a little less missing. But still not right.
Now here another great one. I was so piss. I took headers off exhaust and same. Then I took the full set of exhaust pipes with mufflers and hook them up and started bike and this video is the way it sounds now a lot worst. The rattle sound sounds like its coming from back of engine which was not there before the complete exhaust was put on.
I got to get a compression tester and check compression.
One more note the spark plug wires are just car spark plug wires and the rubber end for plug.
Read more: https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic ... z3WZm8ExGp
Attachments
This video is the first start up after buying it in NOV.2014
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boYoG6bMPp4
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boYoG6bMPp4[/video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boYoG6bMPp4
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boYoG6bMPp4[/video]
this is start up today 4/6/15
https://youtu.be/XwGz0RxhXSk
[video]https://youtu.be/XwGz0RxhXSk[/video]
https://youtu.be/XwGz0RxhXSk
[video]https://youtu.be/XwGz0RxhXSk[/video]
