GL1100 RATTLING NOISE

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Quick question.
If I get another camshaft used. Is it true not to use the camshaft in another head. I should get head and cam together.
I just looked at my right side camshaft and on the #1 lobes are flat spotted and like torn up metal. Thats as much I know now till sunday. I ran out of time today. Because my valves are straight.
 
Ok Dan Thanks.
I got to wait till Sunday to look everything over. But I just pick-up camshaft to but it in a safe place and notice the lobes. Maybe the rockers are shot to I wont know till Sunday. Will post picture's.

I got the front cover on the other motor so now all I have to do is put carb rack on and then install on bike. Sunday and Monday job.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146031#p146031:3rihhp79 said:
auctioneeral » Mon Apr 13, 2015 4:13 pm[/url]":3rihhp79]
OK guy's a real dumb question maybe.
With this motor, I'm working on. When I removed the head's the first time around. I tore things apart. I didn't mark crank for T-1 mark or anything.
When I installed everything back on motor and went to do the timing belts.
This is the way I did it.
I had all valves adjustments back all the way out loose.
I put the timing mark at T-1.
Installed timing belt on the left side with the marks line up with UP at top.
Then I installed right timing belt with marks. And crank was on T-1.
Then I adjusted #1 intake and exhaust #3 exhaust #4 intake.
then I turn motor clockwise till T-1 came up to mark.
then adjusted #2 intake exhaust #3 intake #4 exhaust.
And turn motor over serval times to see if anything was hitting.
That's how I did it.


The reason asking question is, I seen a post today stating to use T-1 and T-2 marks.

Why is there a T-2 mark for.
I was just thinking I should post the way I started out with this ratting motor
Click to expand...
Only the T1 mark is used for installing timing belts. After you've turned the crank several revolutions by hand, recheck all marks. The T2 mark is used for ignition timing.
 
Well I feel a lot better now. I installed the Boston motor with the carb rack I been using on the nake motor. And this motor is running good for sitting for years. I will post video some day this week. So now I got to sync carbs and see how it runs then.
I do have smoke coming from around right head. Smells like oil. But no smoke out exhaust. We will check it out this week.
I knew I had timing right on other motor.
 
I looked the RATTLE motor camshaft and rockers over and I'm going to buy another camshaft and use another rocker shaft I have.
Camshaft lobes are flat spotted and there's a spot on lobe were some of the metal is like sandpaper and it's deep gashes.
So the timing is fine and carb rack is good because I used carb rack on Boston motor.
 

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Dan the head is pulled.. Valves are straight. Poured carb cleaner around valve faces and there was no fluid leaking around valve face. All Springs looked good. So I'm leaning toward camshaft or rockers..
Be a while before working on that motor
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146713#p146713:3bmlb25t said:
auctioneeral » 4 minutes ago[/url]":3bmlb25t]
Dan the head is pulled.. Valves are straight. Poured carb cleaner around valve faces and there was no fluid leaking around valve face. All Springs looked good. So I'm leaning toward camshaft or rockers..
Be a while before working on that motor
Click to expand...
The one cylinder had 60 lbs right?
Could the cam/rocker cause that drop?
 
What would cause motor to get real hot just sitting here for 5 minutes running like in video. The right muffler turning blue. Now I know this motor has not run for a couple of year's till now. I think I'm doing good getting things straight out on it. I got to pull carbs to look at #4 air cut off area because it was getting a little wet fuel in that area.

Also is there different lenghts clutch cables for the different years. I brought a new clutch cable but have not put it on yet.
The reason I ask is on both of these 1981 bikes I have the adjust down by the motor on right side were you put one cable nut on top and one on bottom side of clutch lever. Both my bikes had the nuts on the top side. And when I put them top and bottom I have to much play in clutch at the handle. No matter what I adjust. Like I said I have not try the new cable yet.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=146908#p146908:247hf9r2 said:
auctioneeral » Tue Apr 21, 2015 6:30 pm[/url]":247hf9r2]
What would cause motor to get real hot just sitting here for 5 minutes running like in video. The right muffler turning blue. Now I know this motor has not run for a couple of year's till now. I think I'm doing good getting things straight out on it. I got to pull carbs to look at #4 air cut off area because it was getting a little wet fuel in that area.

Also is there different lenghts clutch cables for the different years. I brought a new clutch cable but have not put it on yet.
The reason I ask is on both of these 1981 bikes I have the adjust down by the motor on right side were you put one cable nut on top and one on bottom side of clutch lever. Both my bikes had the nuts on the top side. And when I put them top and bottom I have to much play in clutch at the handle. No matter what I adjust. Like I said I have not try the new cable yet.
Click to expand...
Very common fix on them. There is also an adjuster on the clutch housing to tighten up the lever a bit. You might gain enough adjusting it there. Some have opted to close the loop where the cable fits (where the nuts were on top) To be sure the cable doesn't slip out.
 

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