Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Pull the plugs, put in 5th gear, & rotate the wheel, :builder: then you can turn the motor either way. :hi:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=161681#p161681:2szsfsl9 said:
Denver » Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:49 pm[/url]":2szsfsl9]
Pull the plugs, put in 5th gear, & rotate the wheel, :builder: then you can turn the motor either way. :hi:
Click to expand...
+1 :good:
 
Again, forgive the ignorance here as i have no idea as to the inner workings of this engine. Is there a difference between rotating the engine from the crankshaft and rotating the engine from the alternator. Please explain.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=161690#p161690:6hhkng9o said:
made2care » Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:03 am[/url]":6hhkng9o]
Again, forgive the ignorance here as i have no idea as to the inner workings of this engine. Is there a difference between rotating the engine from the crankshaft and rotating the engine from the alternator. Please explain.
Click to expand...
That is OK, we are here to help you understand!

Rotating the engine from the stator bolt is done from the back of the engine (left side). Removing the small stator cover gives you access to the bolt that holds the stator. Always wrench on it in one direction clockwise (tightening) to prevent breaking the stator bolt loose. It is fairly easy to turn the engine over this way and you can look right down at your timing marks on the flywheel while turning.

You can also turn the engine from the front at the crank bolt. Same principle applies regarding turning clockwise. I find that I need a much larger wrench to turn from the crank bolt and it is harder to get the timing marks correct on the flywheel because there is a bit of guess work since you are hard pressed to turn the crank bolt and see the flywheel at the same time.

IMHO, 8 years of working on my 1100 engines and I have never had an issue using the stator bolt to rotate the engine.
 
okay great. more questions to come later. At home sick today but, if I start feeling better, I might be tempted to start working on her again. Oh, just thought of another question. Is it necessary to clamp the pulley in place while removing the the belts . Wouldn't think so since i will be removing the pulley and rocker arm.
 
if T1 mark is lined up and pulleys are lined up with arrows, do i still need to turn crankshaft 90 degrees to move a cylinder? REad this somewhere but manual has no mention of it. I believe you do that when reinstalling maybe. I did loosen the valve screws. Man, I need to take a small engines class somewhere.
 
it is good to sink all pistons 1/2 way down in cylinders so absolutely no chance to hit valves with pistons ...once belt is off on a head ...the valves dont move ....if the crank gets moved it could hit a valve that open on the head that has belt off and bend it ...it is good to sink pistons 1/2 way and get both heads off without touching the crank at all again ..doing T1 thing is all on put back together part ...
 
Okay, this is starting to make sense now. Basically, the timing marks are for the reinstall only and don't necessarily need to be on T1 when removing parts. So with the belts on, i can crank pistons to their halfway points, then remove belts.
 
The sooner you tear into it, the sooner you will understand how things work. I know you are being cautious but honest, nothing is going to go wrong on the tear down. Start takin it apart so we can get to fixin it.
 
Not a problem with the wrench method, Made to care :nea: like turning the crank, over stator bolt if you use a wrench, but i like turning the wheel myself :whistling: . By having the transmission in fifth, the transmission turns the motor, the same way the motor turns the transmission, :yes: & most motor rotation, with the least wheel movement. That way if you go past the mark, just turn the wheel back to move mark back. :thank_you: OLD SCHOOL WAY of doing it, learned 45 or so years ago, & have used this method ever since. :salute:
 
and yet another question then I'm done, yeah right. Could i leave the rocker arm in place and just loosen the head bolts and remove entire head with cam in place. I guess most people remove the rocker arm to check the valve seats and such since they are in that far anyway.
 
yes you can leave the rocker arms and cams and pullies in place. Just loosen the bolts and don't forget the little one underneath.
 
+1!

I nearly forgot about that little git a few times, don't forget about!

Cos most likely your gonna have to beat those heads off, I did every time, they most likely ain't gonna just wiggle off.

I dunno what you did with your carbs, but if your bike is like mine, you'll need some room between them and the top of the motor from both sides, to pass a 2x4 through and pound them off.

If that's the case, you'll also need a trusted friend on the other side to catch those suckers when they finally give.
 
gee chilli stuck was it ...rubbber mallot dose good never get to dumb with hands ...they will come off ...cross over coolant feeds elbows can stay on heads most of the time .....i like to back off head bolt just bit ..then use rubber mallot on the heads most of the time they will break loose and then i take olts all ythe way out and take the head off ... :builder:
 
Thats right Joe, also remember that the heads will need to pull straight off towards you. They wont move up and down because of the alignment dowels. I, like Joe, have also not had a problem with the heads coming off easily. Of course, I only did it the one time :oops:
 
From the VOICE OF EXPERIENCE: If you forget the 10mm bolt on the bottom of the head and try to remove the head, it takes very little effort to crack the head around the bolt. If cracked, go get another head because it can't be fixed! :oops: :sensored:
 

Latest posts

Top