Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=177829#p177829:37c3d9mc said:
Denver » 42 minutes ago[/url]":37c3d9mc]
If i understand, you are talking about the needle & seat float assembly. :headscratch: Looks as if you have to buy a K&L PRO carb repair kit to get that portion of the assembly. :Awe: Look at their catalog on line. On page 235, picture top left of the kit's, they look pretty complete. :yes: P M me if you want to go this route. :builder: Have had great luck so far with their stuff, :good: but not needed this many part's to fix mine yet. :nea: They sell new needle's, but no float assembly's, :rant: but the old seat's will almost always clean up with jewelers rouge & a Q'tip or two. :popcorn:

It doesn't include the fuel screen that fits under the float needle. This is what I'm missing and can only get Oem but it would be included in a kit just for that portion of the carb for $37 and thats just for 1 carb.
I;m going to reinstall with no screens and take my chances.
 
That's most likely not stock Joe, :nea: but aftermarket. :roll:Stuff gets pricey after the part's i have mentioned before :rant:
 
I've removed and cleaned most parts mentioned in the tutorial. No cash spent other than carb cleaner. Installing now. I've learned a lot and now know the inner workings of these carbs.
 

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At the point now to "set floats" Is this necessary?
Following Roady's tutorial and I guess the carbs are sitting up vertically then you measure floats 15.5 mm . adjust tiny tab if necessary
 
float is something that for sure needs to stop gas flow ...personally ive never measure them ...i do it by eye and make them all the same ..witch some times means there just as is ...it important the float seat springs all work good .and standing on end give you good feel for spring operation ..past that its getting close to try them ...
 
Fired right up , some leaking from #1 bowl , which i suspected might happen since i re-used the old seals.
good experience overall.
I'm taking a break :rocks:
 
I synced carbs and now i have a terrible engine knock worse than before I cleaned carbs. The good news is that all cylinders are firing now. Remember before how #4 was cold, so at least that problem is fixed but I have to get the knock to stop. Its only at low RPM's.
All the pilot screws are set 1 1/4 turn out per directions.
 
Yep, knock at low rpm = carbs not quite right, mine sounds like a jackhammer at low rpm, going single very soon!

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
 
Did you perform a dry sync before installing back on the bike? If one side is open more than the other before you started, you can still sync them, but the engine will knock from being out of balance.
 

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