Here she is, I named her, "the Wanderer "

[slabghost]

Synch is probably need now that you've done it. First though you need to set those nasty mix screws. 1 1/4 out is base setting to get it running. Now you need to set each mix screw to the highest rpm you can get at idle reset idle to what it was and do the next. Until you've done all four then do it once more. Every adjustment affects the others. Then revisit the synch procedure.

 

[Denver]

No idle drop, :nea: leave them at their highest R P M level, :good: the idle drop is a DETUNING PROCEDURE. :rant:

 

[slabghost]

Absolutely!

 

[made2care]

mcgovern61 » Yesterday, 7:29 pm[/url]":37tciwpd]
Did you perform a dry sync before installing back on the bike? If one side is open more than the other before you started, you can still sync them, but the engine will knock from being out of balance.

I did not do the bench sync. Just a sync once installed on bike. same difference?

 

[made2care]

slabghost » Yesterday, 9:40 pm[/url]":3g0vfbxi]
Synch is probably need now that you've done it. First though you need to set those nasty mix screws. 1 1/4 out is base setting to get it running. Now you need to set each mix screw to the highest rpm you can get at idle reset idle to what it was and do the next. Until you've done all four then do it once more. Every adjustment affects the others. Then revisit the synch procedure.

some of the idle screws are very loose too, even if i get it to where it needs to be, it will jiggle out of place.

 

[made2care]

I'm reading here about the single carb conversion. This seems to be very attractive because its simple and to me, simple means fewer problems.
As most of you know, I'm learning everyday here and just the curiosity on this bike keeps me motivated, however, I'm at the point to where I want to ride the bike and prior to me cleaning the carbs , she rode well and the engine knock was tolerable. Now, the knock is really bad, jackhammer bad and I don't know if i can fix this. Yes, on the open rode I dont have the knock obviously, but when I'm at a stoplight i have to rev the bike ,which I don't want to do.

Is a single carb conversion simple enough for me to do?
Any resources for kits?

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm ok ...bike has no screens ..could be blockage in idle jets already ....plus there is fact that idle jet dump in throat of carbs is blocked ...personally to me and what i call dial in.....it cant even be done to stock carb racks ....they are set up to run lean and really dont come out of this till about 3k rpm ....and lack low rpm torque severely ....on there best day ....ive experienced enough myself to know stock racks lack all the adjustments to actually dial in ...and if you mess with idle screws and they seem to have no effect on its running then the idle circuit is blocked and its usually right there where those brass like towers are coming out in the carbs throat on the motor side of the throttle plate ...id say that is the problem your having right at the moment ..very small hole there ....that has get cleaned and open or theres no chance it will ever idle good on stock racks ....as it had been a long time since i mess stock carbs i kind of forgot to post about this earlier ...randakks info actually dosnt address this at all unless its been in recently ....so id test the idle mix screws for working ....id be temped to take one horn off at a time yank those dam bass towers out ..im sure if the were out gas would come in the bike will run at idle better over no gas ...im sure there just pressed in there ...as last ditch effort to get stock rack worlikng before ditching them totally for a single carb

when it comes to single carb is it easy no...but its a lot better than stock by far if its dial in .....it is for sure not super hard ....but the lack of understanding of dialing in a carb ...and all the mumbo jumble of stupid info that has plague the single carb conversion ....most never get theres right ...you have already felt the ordeal with stock carb that are a complete mess of tech and dependent engineering of parts to create such a epa system

the dkl system and vw carb i think you can handle personally ...i dont think you handle dft carb and a system like mine the dft carb has to much epa infected parts to be easy to do as carb in my opinion has to be modded to work extensively ...at least on my 1200 mod motor it did for sure ....

the dkl system inventor has 2 bikes going and all the info is here to look at .....

the advantages over stock are huge ...my system is a high performance system that is more reliable over stock big time .....shows not just a little bit ...but a lot more power than stock...there is absolutely nothing that stock carbs have over a dial in single at all

personally my dosnt even run like a wing at all ...more like a crotch rocket that can hurt you ...but it is a 2bbl progressive system that just can not be matched by almost anything out there ....

ive yrs of reliable service from with many long trips in the mix ...and will never use honda stock carbs ever on any oldwing i own personally :thank_you:

 

[mcgovern61]

made2care » Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:57 am[/url]":2jde999t]

mcgovern61 » Yesterday, 7:29 pm[/url]":2jde999t]
Did you perform a dry sync before installing back on the bike? If one side is open more than the other before you started, you can still sync them, but the engine will knock from being out of balance.

I did not do the bench sync. Just a sync once installed on bike. same difference?

No. Bench syncing is done with the carbs off the bike to be sure all of the butterfly valves are set evenly before starting the dynamic sync. It is a very simple procedure. In Roady's thread, he covers the details towards the end of the 1st post.

viewtopic.php?p=2153#p2153

If the butterflies are not set evenly, you can end up syncing the carbs, but they will be way out of balance at idle causing the very knocks you are describing.

 

[dan filipi]

Left bank to right bank out of sync is what causes that knocking from what I've experienced.

 

[made2care]

mcgovern61 » Today, 7:45 am[/url]":1u22ypku]

made2care » Mon Aug 01, 2016 3:57 am[/url]":1u22ypku]

mcgovern61 » Yesterday, 7:29 pm[/url]":1u22ypku]
Did you perform a dry sync before installing back on the bike? If one side is open more than the other before you started, you can still sync them, but the engine will knock from being out of balance.

I did not do the bench sync. Just a sync once installed on bike. same difference?

No. Bench syncing is done with the carbs off the bike to be sure all of the butterfly valves are set evenly before starting the dynamic sync. It is a very simple procedure. In Roady's thread, he covers the details towards the end of the 1st post.

viewtopic.php?p=2153#p2153

If the butterflies are not set evenly, you can end up syncing the carbs, but they will be way out of balance at idle causing the very knocks you are describing.

I did read that in his thread when i had the carbs out, but misunderstood. Thought i could sync carbs on bike and it was the same. So, I guess i need to remove carbs again and do bench sync, then reinstall and do "dynamic" sync, correct? or can i drain carbs and do dry sync on bike?

 

[joedrum]

if you loosen all the sync screws the thottle plates will close ...like the 3 carb will be ...no need to take the cabs off at all .....take up the play in the sync screws and its bench sync plain and simple .......from there id try to start it ...if it still knocks its cause idle circuit is still plug up ....if the idle screws make no difference its cause they cant as idle is plug up ...there very limited adjustment on these carbs ...

 

[dan filipi]

Could be its not being synced correctly, I missed a vital step the first time and had trouble.

Carb 3 is the reference carb. Vacuum on #1, 2 and 4 must match 3 because 3 is not adjustable.

Sync vacuum on #1 to #3.
Sync vacuum on #2 to #4.
Now sync the left bank (#2 and #4) to #3.

I had trouble until I realized the #4 sync screw syncs the left 2 carbs to the right 2 carbs.

If your sync is way off (which it sounds like it is) you might have to adjust the idle speed screw up or down to keep it at 1000 rpm while adjusting any one of the carbs or adjusting the left to right bank.

 

[dan filipi]

Also check the carb linkages for looseness especially the long one connecting right bank to left bank. Mine is loose and had me chasing changing vacuum readings.
I settled on just blipping the throttle and letting the linkage rest back where it wanted to sit at idle.

 

[Ansimp]

Great real world advice Dan :good:

 

[made2care]

In Roady's post he shows he uses the end of a paint brush that is put between adjustment screw and stop on number 3.
Wouldn't the thickness of the handle affect the adjustment??

 

[dan filipi]

Paint brush is during a "bench" sync to hold all 4 carb throttle plates open a bit while he gauges the plate opening with a pin. Nothing is used during a "running" sync with vacuum.

Roady » June 6th, 2011, 6:39 pm[/url]":2kymtzfu]
Original thread posted by Roady- Carburetor Overhaul, GL1100

Get a nice smooth piece of wire or a long pin to use as a feeler gauge. Adjust #3 carb with the throttle stop screw so that the wire slides through the top and/or bottom with a little resistance. You'll need to prop the idle adjusting screw out for this (see the paint brush handle?).

 

[joedrum]

sheesh 1100 carbs dont have that idle tower like the 1000s do ...i hate not being around stuff to look at

 

[made2care]

Well, you won't believe what I did. Don't shoot me, I purchased a 2004 BMW R1150 RT. Deal is not 100% finalized but it will be Friday. Wife will not let me keep my Goldwings so .............................. if you are interested in them , let me know by PM.
Both are listed on Craigslist NW oklahoma, Woodward- 97 GL1500 and of course "The Wanderer"
If anything falls through I will be sure to keep you updated. I hope nobody calls on "The Wanderer" but I priced it to sell.

I'm sure I will get another fixer upper someday , since you guys have taught me so much and thank you for that.
This was by far, the most amazing restoration I've done and I know it doesn't even compare to the total tear down and rebuilds on here but for me, it was quite extensive and could not occur without your help.

Chow for now

Tim

You just watch, these bikes might not sell, especially with the economy the way it is :whip: Man our wives have a lot of power , don't they :whip: or mine does at least :whip:

 

[joedrum]

oh well ..it was a great thread to follow ....i wont comment on woman issues.....hope the bmw is a great bike for you ....hope your wife is doing well also with her problems ...put some pics up of new bike .... :mrgreen:

 

[rob.lafady]

It has been a pleasure seeing the progress you've made and the confidence you've gained on this build, I've learned a few things along the way as well.

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