skiri251 home made manifold and runners

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skiri251

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Tom's carb and the stuff are here.
I started making the intake.

DSCN0194s.jpg


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Now the question.
I assume the pipes shouldn't be sticking out inside the plenum for good flow.
Currently it's around 1/8". Should I make it flush with the surface or it doesn't matter?

DSCN0195s.jpg
 
Make them as flush as you can,in my opinion, it won't make a lot of difference but flush is better! Look's Great so far!! on the bottom of mine,where i bent the inverted V, i just welded a piece of flat from left over 2X3 to the bottom ,boxed the end's shut, put a 3/8npt fitting in each end and that is my heat(tapped into the return hot water pipe from the head,just 1 side) if you want heat(Tom was as you know VERY strong about this) and it doesn't seem to need much here to stop the intake tubes from getting cold. If you don't do the bend in your intake floor, just cut another piece of your 2X3 with about 3/8" of the sides still on and weld that to the bottom and box it. Again, just my opinion! at any rate " Man, that looks Great!! :salute:
 
I have to say it one more time " Thank You Dan and Joe Again " if it was not for you folks and your site Dan, i would NEVER have done this and having this much fun, today's 250 mile ride was awsome :salute:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109153#p109153:3orrr4jw said:
skiri251 » Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:03 pm[/url]":3orrr4jw]
Tom's carb and the stuff are here.
I started making the intake.
file.php

VERY nice work!! :good: :clapping:
 
Looking good! Are you planning to use the 2-1 adapter on it? It seems the carbs like a little height.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109157#p109157:13xu04v8 said:
sgq700 » Tue Feb 04, 2014 8:19 pm[/url]":13xu04v8]
Make them as flush as you can,in my opinion, it won't make a lot of difference but flush is better! Look's Great so far!! on the bottom of mine,where i bent the inverted V, i just welded a piece of flat from left over 2X3 to the bottom ,boxed the end's shut, put a 3/8npt fitting in each end and that is my heat(tapped into the return hot water pipe from the head,just 1 side) if you want heat(Tom was as you know VERY strong about this) and it doesn't seem to need much here to stop the intake tubes from getting cold. If you don't do the bend in your intake floor, just cut another piece of your 2X3 with about 3/8" of the sides still on and weld that to the bottom and box it. Again, just my opinion! at any rate " Man, that looks Great!! :salute:

Thanks again.
I did the bend.
But I ordered cheapo grip heater from Hong Kong ($4.70 including shipping :hihihi: ) so will try that one first.
 
Test fitting the carb.
With 2-to-1 adapter the carb clears everything.

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It's possible to mount it without the carb neck but does it help increase the low end torque?
How long should it be?

One more question:

I see the carb has four butterflies, two at the top and two at the bottom.
With WOT, the bottom two butterflies are wide open but the top two only open 1/4 or less.
I guess this is by design but why?
 
I'm not sure what you mean by the "carb neck".

The top plates are the choke plates.
There is a vacuum powered 'choke pull off' which will open the choke plates further once it's running.
 
Mine is 1 3/8" from carb flange to top of intake,however i did mine to run a 1bbl 34pict carb and hated it so i cannot say if it will make a difference mounting your adapter right to the top of your intake? i would guess it would make no difference. I would make it double thick at the hole you cut so it is thick enough to keep a seal to the flange gasket as it cycles heat! you do not want to deal with a vacume leak! the top butterfly's are for your choke and will open as you apply 12 volts to the elect. choke, the bottom ones are for the throttle.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109253#p109253:iq10ev65 said:
sgq700 » Wed Feb 05, 2014 5:24 pm[/url]":iq10ev65]
Mine is 1 3/8" from carb flange to top of intake,however i did mine to run a 1bbl 34pict carb and hated it so i cannot say if it will make a difference mounting your adapter right to the top of your intake? i would guess it would make no difference. I would make it double thick at the hole you cut so it is thick enough to keep a seal to the flange gasket as it cycles heat! you do not want to deal with a vacume leak! the top butterfly's are for your choke and will open as you apply 12 volts to the elect. choke, the bottom ones are for the throttle.

Thank you.
I have 1/8" plate in the garage so will use that.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109252#p109252:obwj2fia said:
dan filipi » Wed Feb 05, 2014 5:19 pm[/url]":eek:bwj2fia]
I'm not sure what you mean by the "carb neck".

The top plates are the choke plates.
There is a vacuum powered 'choke pull off' which will open the choke plates further once it's running.

Ahhh..
Chokes. Makes sense.
 
ok ...I am not slamming here just blabbing ... if using transition piece is good cause it raises carb from floor ... I wouldn't get to aggressive raising floor up ... as it sort of defeats the purpose some .... on V build I am actually considering the other way ... as of now the bottom is gone cut out like the oval of where the weber carb was mounted before ....as in you guys build the ID in the plenum channel is 1 1/4" at the most ... meaning the carb shoots strait into it ... this is the biggest flaw in the downdraft carb as the weber is ... but its the only flaw ... so i am thinking completely the opposite ... I'm going for the dish down instead of v up thinking.
 
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