skiri251 home made manifold and runners

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
not saying it don't .. my type 4 the same way ... just saying there a conflict in the 2 mods ... just something I am looking into .... seems the raised area is subject to ice there maybe ... as stated just throwing it out to consider ... I think also the raised v is a deflector of flow and relies that also ..
 
I really like that manifold design; it is very simple to build and very easy box in the bottom to heat with coolant.

I would suggest trimming the ends of the plenum, the 1/2" or so that extend beyond the runners, as close a possible to the runners...that is just dead air space.

When the grip heaters arrive just put them on the bars to warm your hands. They will not provide a noticeable amount of heat to the plenum. A heat source is needed that will overcome the large amount of heat that is lost due to evaporating fuel plus heat the plenum up to hot. Only a good flow of hot coolant can provide this.

Brian
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109281#p109281:2w4ta1cu said:
canuckxxxx » Thu Feb 06, 2014 8:34 am[/url]":2w4ta1cu]
I really like that manifold design; it is very simple to build and very easy box in the bottom to heat with coolant.

I would suggest trimming the ends of the plenum, the 1/2" or so that extend beyond the runners, as close a possible to the runners...that is just dead air space.

When the grip heaters arrive just put them on the bars to warm your hands. They will not provide a noticeable amount of heat to the plenum. A heat source is needed that will overcome the large amount of heat that is lost due to evaporating fuel plus heat the plenum up to hot. Only a good flow of hot coolant can provide this.

Brian
Click to expand...

Is this directed to mine?
Grip heater part surely is but I already made the plenum box ends as close to the runners as possible.

Okay, so 10Watt is not powerful enough even in warm SoCal?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109284#p109284:3sqbm4ov said:
skiri251 » Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:23 am[/url]":3sqbm4ov]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109281#p109281:3sqbm4ov said:
canuckxxxx » Thu Feb 06, 2014 8:34 am[/url]":3sqbm4ov]
I really like that manifold design; it is very simple to build and very easy box in the bottom to heat with coolant.

I would suggest trimming the ends of the plenum, the 1/2" or so that extend beyond the runners, as close a possible to the runners...that is just dead air space.

When the grip heaters arrive just put them on the bars to warm your hands. They will not provide a noticeable amount of heat to the plenum. A heat source is needed that will overcome the large amount of heat that is lost due to evaporating fuel plus heat the plenum up to hot. Only a good flow of hot coolant can provide this.

Brian
Click to expand...

Is this directed to mine?
Grip heater part surely is but I already made the plenum box ends as close to the runners as possible.

Okay, so 10Watt is not powerful enough even in warm SoCal?
Click to expand...

Yes, I was referring to yours but it sounds like you have the ends as tight in as possible.

Like you, I was worried about tapping into a trouble-free cooling system and screwing something up. But Tom Langdon insists that, only by running lots of hot coolant through the boxed-in plenum bottom, will you get enough heat to let the carb work right. So I figured it had to be done.

I have another thread in the single carb topic (canuckxxxx's Single carb manifold build) where I will run coolant from the back of the centre section of the coolant collector on top of the engine...through a boxed in section of the VW plenum...and then to a point at the suction of the pump. My stuff is in at the welder now but when I get it back I will but it all together and we will see how well it heats the plenum. The way I did it does not change the stock cooling system very much and it pretty easy to do. So you might wait and see how I make out and do the same for yours. Just a suggestion.

Brian
 
ok skirri .. as am totally excited about your build ... as I just looked again at it ....the pics are great ...what I see today was ...end caps could be welded on that hung down some ... then a bottom could be welded on last over the V in section ... this would make a sealed chamber for coolant heat that would even heat the top of V section really good .... it would very easy to tap into that to do it ... and not pushing this it just what I saw when I looked just now
 
Seems to me the grip heater should be enough. My reasoning is that atomized fuel has more power than vaporized fuel. Too much heat you'll be running on vapors.
 
Here's my pseudo-science regarding coolant heat. :hihihi:

1 calorie = 1 cc water x 1 Celsius
1 calorie = about 4.2 Joules
Wattage = Joules / time (sec)

So:
coolant flow rate is F (cc/sec)
temperature drop is C (Celsius)
heat capacity of the coolant: H (against the water)

the wattage of the coolant type plenum heater is:

W = 4.2 x F x C x H

Now the numbers (wild guess)

Flow rate: 10 cc/sec ?
Temp. drop: 20 Celsius (=36 F)?
coolant heat capacity 1.0 (same as water, for now)

Then W = 4.2 x 10 x 20 x 1.0 = 820 Watt
so my grip heater (10 watt) is too small.

Not sure coolant temp out of the plenum heater drops that much though..
Not sure about the flow rate either.

Does any one have more reliable numbers?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=109286#p109286:18n1pvnb said:
joedrum » Thu Feb 06, 2014 10:08 am[/url]":18n1pvnb]
ok skirri .. as am totally excited about your build ... as I just looked again at it ....the pics are great ...what I see today was ...end caps could be welded on that hung down some ... then a bottom could be welded on last over the V in section ... this would make a sealed chamber for coolant heat that would even heat the top of V section really good .... it would very easy to tap into that to do it ... and not pushing this it just what I saw when I looked just now
Click to expand...

Yes, Joe I think that's what sgq700 did.
 
You can get carb icing at 100* f with 60% humidity. An unheated carb can drop up to 70* f. Ice can build up in the carb throat as much as the plenum. Coolant or exhaust heated plenum also transfers enough heat to carb to stop icing.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 
Only way is to give them a try Skiri and then we will know for sure. The scientists tell you ATF won't work but I am a definite convert to using it in the gas tank now after trying it...
 
I've read of 40 degrees drop before. Never heard of as much as 70, but I am just a hack. When you combine the energy to change states, liquid to gas, and the huge pressure drop going through the venturi, it's a large energy drop.
 
Well, successful coolant based plenum heaters I have seen here are relatively simple design.
sgq700's heater consists of a single chamber.
Dan's heater has two pipes running if I remember correctly.

For the heaters to be efficient, it needs a lot of surface area like our radiators.
So I am hoping that successful heaters seen here are not that efficient i.e. they don't heat the plenum much.
Then my 10W grip heater might have a chance.

typical heat exchanger:
Shell and tube.jpg


Of course, I may be completely wrong. :hihihi:
 
ekvh":12pvho7j said:
I've read of 40 degrees drop before. Never heard of as much as 70, but I am just a hack.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't call yourself a hack. Low rpm engines ( I.E. Car engines) you may not see as much as a temp drop. When dealing with high rpm motors you can get much larger drops. Pilots on small piston engine planes often have a manual heat. They inject exhaust directly into the carb. I have also seen high reving ninja 250s ice the stock carbs.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 
ok I might be wrong to skirri but I think your looking backwards here ... yes heat exchangers the push out heat to open air to beniefit cooling motor off lor like heating a house surface area is important for contacr with air ....

but here we are trying to to heat in solid base of floor plenum making the reverse true ... the dense water with total contact to the floor base to plenum is the best heat exchanger into solid floor ... adding anything to that would screw flow of coolant for not much reason ...
 
I wish I could measure in/out coolant temp and flow rate...

If 10W grip heater is not powerful enough, I can add this.. to a point.

https://www.oemheaters.com/p-6111-12v-dc-heat-cable-9-wattsfoot.aspx

...actually I have 5 ohm big watt resisters collecting dust somewhere in my garage. I used them to lower the torque generated by GL1500 starter motor for my sidecar electric reverse project. They can be used as electric heater!
 

Latest posts

Top