Working on my solex mod

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Of course if its the fuel pump that might explain my poor mileage its been going into the crankcase. looks like its time for an oil change
 
Well you do need to smell the oil. If it smells of gasoline yes it's time to change the oil. Okay washer as spacer yes I can see how that would adjust fuel level. The term gasket brings to mind the seal between parts.
 
Ok one problem solved when I took the fuel hose off the carb last night it tore off a chunk of the rubber which when I reinstalled the fuel line plugged the carb inlet put on a new fuel line and ran it a couple of miles. We now return you to my continuing saga of tuning the carb :beg:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=160157#p160157:1ls8ix6z said:
Bilgerat » Wed Sep 30, 2015 10:48 am[/url]":1ls8ix6z]
Ok got home last night and pulled the idle jet, it was a modified 55 jet but smaller than 35 smallest bit i had was 40 so that is its current setting. Still having to screw the fast idle adjustment all the way in to get it to idle so I'm gonna swing by NAPA for a rebuild kit and check the guts

Just so I am clear, which one is the idle jet?
 
ok guys .....unlike the false info out there the oldwing is a perfect set up for single carb application .....all superchargers are single carb set ups that ive seen in the oldwing world ...it is actually the best motor set up for singles in MC motors ...with set ups using stock intake horns and manifolds there is some problems with sealing good ...from the posts it seems float shut off ..witch is just one is a problem .....clear hose is great fuel rated or not to get set up right so you can see gas feed is huge help...lowering float level is good in bike set up for the lean involved in side stand and all ...this is not just a car carb problem ...stock carb racks leak into motor every bit as bad ...if anything there worse about ......on my bike my carb float is low ...much lower than weber suggest it should be weber info is for cars ...best advantage about this is ...it can only get leaner lowering float ...when your having a rich problem i see no problem here and this should be done ...as the oldwing motor is small at idle compared to car motors ...once you float level down as a mod to fit MC application ...and fuel feed is clean and you ca see feed with clear hose your ready to jet carb for motor ......on strait carb or non cv carb like solex is running rich happens way faster than stock as the carb are instance and not late and lazy as stock ....stock idle jets in oldwing is .035 .....it dosnt matter there is four ....seems to me the car carb has to start here .....and it will provide as much or more at idle than stock...im guessing idle circuit is bib in solex so it going to get max flow from .035 idle jet ....on my bike as for tricks that can be done ...ive got a strand of wire brush wire in my idle jet down here in fla as access to tools is 1000miles away ...on the weber carb im using i could do this lock it in place in no fear of it coming loose ...not suggest you do this just what i did in a pinch ...and it worked great its all about proper sizing .....it may be the solex idle feeds to carb is to much period ...like it was on my carb ..this is different than jetting and jetting dosnt help this ....its after the jet so on mine a cut outlets to carb air flow down ....im not sure about solex ...but on dft carbs there are transitions off idle holes in throttle plat line ....basiclly i get my idle there and there only as mix screw is totally shut down on my carb ...and even more so as i use it to provide more air ....my bike can idle down in the hundreds now....but olwings seem to like abouut 1200 rpm and i have throttle adjusted to get that ....in fact my idle can adjust on the fly...with cable at grip ..to me this is great set up as i can dial in idle for the air conditions of the day easy ....not saying this is what you need to do just saying ...that till i got idle outlets to air flow down to size idle was not going to be steady as feed was to much ....again sizing all things are important ....past that sizing that ...there accelerator pump and its feed ..if it to much it can flood things but i doutbb this is much a problem ... but it is as in jetting as we tend twist throttle good while doing this bike sitting and running ...you can be fooled into going to small in main jetting ....always use road testing as final determination of jetting ...if main jetting is to small bike will run out of stream at higher rpm ...if pump cant be size ....then its throw in the lingkage might need to be ....there is no reason a solex one barrle carb cant supply good charge to all rpm level a oldiwing has in my view ....it supplies bigger motor there charge ...it just sizing things right son everything is smooth ...no big deal ....to mee it seems the should be easy it is not so much a epa crap carb like the dft is ....so quit messing around and dial the solex in guys LOL... :popcorn: ......brian i have no clue all i see is keyboard in front of me :whistling:
 
I want to make sure I am rejetting the correct jet... :shock:

Item 9 is the air correction jet. item 17 is the main jet, Item 34 is called a Pilot Jet and I assume that is the idle jet. Those are the only three jets on the carb. Looking for a cutaway view now Dan.

34carb_exploded_view.jpg

1 Fillister head screw and lock washer (upper body (5)
2 Spring washer
3 Carburetor upper part
4 Float valve washer
5 Float valve
6 Gasket, carburetor body
7 Float pin retainer
8 Float and pivot pin
9 Air correction jet with emulsion tube
10 Carburetor body
11 Pilot air drilling
12 Auxiliary air drilling
13 Bypass screw
14 Main jet cover plug
15 Main jet cover plug seal
16 Electromagnetic cutoff valve
17 Main jet
18 Volume control screw and O-ring
19 Fast idle lever
20 Throttle valve lever
21 Throttle return spring
22 Accelerator pump injector
23 Accelerator pump diaphragm spring
24 Accelerator pump diaphragm
25 Cotter pin
26 1-mm (.040 in.) thick washer (2)
27 Connecting rod spring
28 Connecting link
29 Adjustable bell crank
30 Circlip
31 Adjusting segment
32 Accelerator pump cover
33 Screw
34 Pilot jet
35 Vacuum diaphram cover
36 Oval head screw (3)
37 Vacuum diaphragm spring
38 Vacuum diaphram
39 Plastic cap
40 Choke heating element
41 Cover retaining ring
42 Retaining ring spacer (3)
43 Small fillister head screw (3)
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=160864#p160864:2n27xax9 said:
dan filipi » Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:57 am[/url]":2n27xax9]
Looks like 34 to me also.

This carb is similar in ways to mine but still very different.
I'll help where I can, but I have no direct experience with it.

Just knowing which jet is which is enough - if only the makers wouldn't change names on people. I am going to be using the same approach that you did: changes in .005 increments until the motor is running right.
 
Knowing what I know now, I'd start with .030 then .005 steps up.
.030 it wouldn't idle, .035 it would idle, .040 there was no change in idle so went back to .035.
At .035, I'm a bit more than a full turn out on the idle mix screw.
 
ok guys this is a real carb and not epa crap like dft ......... got all the adjustments ...what stands out as first is the auxiliary fuel and air feed .....seems if rich the gas auxiliary shold be adjusted closed or close ...think id close it and start from there .... this is a real carb and has all adjustment to dial in ....without modding anything it looks to me ....so dont worry guys this is going to work good ...but as said before id start by lowering float level for bike use ...
 
Well got the float level lowered in the carb, still waiting on the 35 jet for the idle tracking said it was in New York two days ago
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=160868#p160868:1nr11w98 said:
joedrum » Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:23 am[/url]":1nr11w98]
ok guys this is a real carb and not epa crap like dft ......... got all the adjustments ...what stands out as first is the auxiliary fuel and air feed .....seems if rich the gas auxiliary shold be adjusted closed or close ...think id close it and start from there .... this is a real carb and has all adjustment to dial in ....without modding anything it looks to me ....so dont worry guys this is going to work good ...but as said before id start by lowering float level for bike use ...


Would you still recommend re-jetting the idle to .035?
 
yes id go .035 idle jet ...what i meant was ...it dosnt look like any special mods need to be done on the carb itself ...like i had to do on the weber 32-34 carb for hooch ...jetting air and fuel is regular dialing in ..in the pics brian posted all the gas seems to come out at throttle plate level ...the weber totally different in its set up....if it was me id also leave hole in throttle plat too at first ...this should lean things at idle ...but thats a guess ..could go the other way never know till you try ....

with all the gas charge coming so low in carb not sure how that effects things ...but it sort of makes sense to raise carb some as the action really close to manifold bottom ...might cause raw gas as turning is first thing to happen ...seems vw set ups are raised up some just have to try it first the easiest way and see how it dose ....might be just fine as is ...

this carb is a idle and main circuit carb with a variable adjusting jet for gas and air in between the two systems and should dial right in fine ...with proper jetting is my guess ...

throttle cable idle adjust on the fly is a huge positive mod i did and really allows fine tuning idle for conditions at hand ...as they change always :thanks:
 
Good news,bad news. Think my idle jet is partially plugged must not have gotten out all the rubber from the fuel line problem, having a hard time idling however the mileage shot up to 37 mpg from 24 got called into work last night and did a 90 mile run in excess of 65 ran great once the main jet kicked in
 
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