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Thanks, I got this now and am onto the water pump,

There's a lot of movement so it looks like I have a sucky job ahead of me...Thanks again! :crying:

The bike's got 50k miles on it. Prudent to replace?

It does seem to have some side to side movement.

Is the replacement impeller steel rather than plastic?

Thanks Dan. I had confidence that the timing was right and I've already re-installed the valve cover. Now I've pulled the water pump cover off to check the impeller. Looks like its made out of a Phenolic or plastic material. I haven't checked my manual yet. Is the one on the GL1100 difficult to...

Ok, the front right cylinder, as you are sitting on the bike, is at TDC and both valves are closed. T1 and the camshaft pulleys are all lined up. Are we good?

Thanks, I'll check cylinder 1.

Yes, the crank does rotate twice to every rotation of the cams. I'd like to think I'm good to go but I'd like to double check to see for sure. I would think that one of the cylinders should be in TDC...

Just started the process of changing the timing belts. I've made the mistake of allowing the two pulleys to rotate before I figured out how to secure them as I'm installing the new belts. I can now line up T1 and the two pulley marks with UP facing up and then rotate the crankshaft two...

Got is re-assembled. Now working on the front wheel/bearings.

Did you use the high strength Loctite? A friend of mine tells me he's used this material in the past to repair industrial gear reducers and it performed well. I guess we'll see. I'll re-check the wheel play in a few months to see how it's holding up... I understand this is a common problem with...

Yes, I'm doing all the preventative maintenance, gear lube too (synthetic). The tires look to be fairly new. I've also got bearings for the front wheel as well.

Your bike is coming along great! Mine is in the same condition right now, going through everything...

"You may say I'm a dreamer but I'm not the only one"

It's been a while since I last posted and I'm taking all this great advice to heart. So far I've gone ahead and have rebuilt the carbs, (Wasn't that bad), checked the tank (no rust), adjusted the valves, pulled the back wheel off to check the bearings, the inner had spun in the hub. I had...

Yes, the cable's definitely got to go. I pulled the pipes off and started removing the rust. Finished up the back side with black, high temp paint. Got a replacement cover for the seat...

There is a plastic polish liquid out there for removal of oxidation. I know it works well on auto headlights.

Checked my battery and the positive battery cable had been frayed, half ass repaired and was badly corroded.

What are the common inexpensive options for heavily rusted but still functional exhaust pipes. One muffler isnt too bad but the other is pretty heavily rusted in the cone area. The header pipes are pretty bad. I thought about sandblasting the header pipes ans then painting high temp black.