'83 GL1100 restoration

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drhicks123

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May 14, 2013
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Maumelle AR
I'm in the process of restoring the GL1100 I bought about a month ago. I got it for a very good price and it only has 50,000 miles. Other than some weather damage, corrosion and spray paint, the bike's all original and has potential. I plan to post some pictures and I'll be asking for some advice.
Question: For reliability, what are the "must do" things that need to be checked, repaired, etc. I am rebuilding the carbs, changing the timing belt and I've already changed the oil to Amsoil. The tires are in great condition and I will be changing the brake pads. Since I have it apart right now, I'd like to take care of any future issues and ride this baby some day with confidence!
The paint will be done in a few weeks, metal flake black.
 
Make sure the weep hole under the water pump is not stopped up as a leak there will tell you the water pump is failing. If the radiator is out, go ahead and remove and test the thermoswitch for the radiator coolant fan. I would also go ahead and remove the three bolts holding the lower radiator hose housing and see if you have ANY up and down or side to side play at the water pump impeller. You can tell by wiggling it with your finger. If you do, replace the water pump. Summer is here and you will need all the cooling problems solved now, new hoses and radiator flush. A lot of heat builds up quick in these old gals. Oh, almost forgot, check the date code on those tires, if there over five to seven years old, you probably want to replace them even if they look brand new.
 
What Mike says, plus check inside the gas tank for any rust or corrosion, and replace the fuel filter. Make sure the forks and rear shocks have oil in them and will hold pressure.
 
ignition wires and ends need new or redone im sure weak ignition is huge problem with oldwings ...also check stator plug for heat damage...may need a good cleaning or straitwired ...
 
I'll definitely check out that cooling system and I have heard about the gas tank rust problem on these bikes.
The fork oil is good advice and I'll replace the ignition wires.
I also plan to check the wheel bearings and replace all the fuel lines, fuel filter and vacuum lines. That stuff is cheap.
The carb rebuild is my next project.
Oh, I'll be sure to get a gremlin bell!
 
change out the fluids in the forks and brakes. Forks use ATF. Most carburetors don't need "rebuilt" they usually do need a thorough cleaning. Be cautious and do not use any cleaners that will damage rubber. There are a few key parts that are rubber. Low speed jets need to come out for cleaning. Read some of the carb threads and if you still have questions fire away.
 
Ok, this will make a good thread so we can compile a full list of what should be done to refresh an oldwing and get that old beast back on the road.

Brake lines, the rubber ones.
They are probably original.
The rubber breaks down on the inside and flakes off clogging the ports.

I'm not sure if original rubbers are available but upgrade to stainless steel braided is a good investment. I did mine and it improved the feel.
 
Welcome to Classics!

Have you checked the Dog-bone fuse next to the starter selonoid? You may want to change that out for a blade type fues and holder. Also take a look at the stator wires (3 yellow along the front edge of the battery) and see if the connector is melting. You may want to consider soldering them together and getting rid of that connector if it is still there.
 
For reliability clean, tighten, and grease (with dielectric grease or vaseline) every electrical connector. I'd leave the switches alone until there is a problem.
 
Hey, I'm all about proactive maintenance. You guys are absolutely right, age, corrosion, oxidation...it's all the enemy for a vintage bike. This has been an informative thread!
 
What are the common inexpensive options for heavily rusted but still functional exhaust pipes. One muffler isnt too bad but the other is pretty heavily rusted in the cone area. The header pipes are pretty bad. I thought about sandblasting the header pipes ans then painting high temp black.
 
In the UK we can buy antioxidant rust treatments such as https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165594 or https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165594
These are my products of choice mainly because I live over the road from the shop. there are many such products , by many suppliers, that do a similar job. As they say - you pay your money you take your choice.

Another option is to blast and re-chrome. but would your chromer take on a used system ? not many will because of the contaminants in the pipes. If they are compliant then before you send them for chroming try cleaning out with a strong soda solution that should clean out any carbon/acidic solution within.
Just a thought - hope it helps.
 
Yes, the cable's definitely got to go. I pulled the pipes off and started removing the rust. Finished up the back side with black, high temp paint.
Got a replacement cover for the seat...
 
If you run into anything that has you wondering...i'm just about done with my 1983 Interstate resto...just waiting on some painted parts, but i went thru motor, valve adjustments, painted motor, cleaning/rebuilding carbs, new lines/hoses, master cylinder rebuild, claiper rebuild, new brake lines, wheels powder coated, new bearings, rear drive, shocks, all electrical (followed everyones advice) on the electrical and did all the upgrades...probably more i cant remember---will be riding next week

HEres a few shots
 

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