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Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
1980 Standard running again
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<blockquote data-quote="Arnold" data-source="post: 39218" data-attributes="member: 965"><p>This past week I removed the old fork seals leaving the tubes in the triple clamps while disassembing the bottoms, then reassembling. I pulled the tubes out of the triple clamps in order to press the seals into place with the 1.5" PVC pipe. Then, I reinstalled the tubes in the triple clamps. I rotated the tubes so that the air hose fittings were on the outside. I had removed the rubber hose that balances the air pressure, because I didn't plan on putting any more air in the front forks. Instead, I found Napa Auto parts had a little red metric plug that was 8mm in diameter with threads of 1.0 that worked just fine, with an o-ring, to stop the fluid from coming out. So, on each side of the forks, the cap orifices face outward instead of inward. That made it easy to add eight ounces of ATF, then screwed the red plugs in. I took it for a 30 mile ride and no ATF leaked from these plugs (see photo).</p><p>Arnold</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Arnold, post: 39218, member: 965"] This past week I removed the old fork seals leaving the tubes in the triple clamps while disassembing the bottoms, then reassembling. I pulled the tubes out of the triple clamps in order to press the seals into place with the 1.5" PVC pipe. Then, I reinstalled the tubes in the triple clamps. I rotated the tubes so that the air hose fittings were on the outside. I had removed the rubber hose that balances the air pressure, because I didn't plan on putting any more air in the front forks. Instead, I found Napa Auto parts had a little red metric plug that was 8mm in diameter with threads of 1.0 that worked just fine, with an o-ring, to stop the fluid from coming out. So, on each side of the forks, the cap orifices face outward instead of inward. That made it easy to add eight ounces of ATF, then screwed the red plugs in. I took it for a 30 mile ride and no ATF leaked from these plugs (see photo). Arnold [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
1980 Standard running again
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