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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
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SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
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SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
about to mount first try at single carb setup
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<blockquote data-quote="skiri251" data-source="post: 110564" data-attributes="member: 511"><p>>If I was looking for negative aspect, the only thing I noticed is I could not engage clutch at 1000 rpm and idle out from complete stop.</p><p>>When my stock setup was working properly I could engage clutch at 1000 rpm and creep out smoothly without throttle on flat ground, like a big rig in low.</p><p>>With my current setup I do have to slightly rev engine and also slightly slip clutch to engage at 1500 to just under 2000 rpm.</p><p></p><p>Wow! That's what I felt exactly.</p><p>If I engage the clutch @ too low rev, it bogs a little bit. </p><p></p><p>> Most definitely between 3000 and 5000 rpm its way smoother and more powerful than my stock setup </p><p></p><p>That's what I felt too. I am not sure powerful but definitely smoother.</p><p></p><p>> Oh, does not seem to HAVE to have heat right now to run well enough </p><p></p><p>Probably true to mine too. It held on to around 70F with the heater turned off as far as I don't open up the throttle a lot.</p><p>Also in my case, the steel pipe runners were really warm almost hot I can say. I don't think the heat is coming from my plenum heater. It must be coming from the heads via factory elbow connecting pieces. And maybe radiating heat from the crankcase also heats up the plenum and runners to some extent.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="skiri251, post: 110564, member: 511"] >If I was looking for negative aspect, the only thing I noticed is I could not engage clutch at 1000 rpm and idle out from complete stop. >When my stock setup was working properly I could engage clutch at 1000 rpm and creep out smoothly without throttle on flat ground, like a big rig in low. >With my current setup I do have to slightly rev engine and also slightly slip clutch to engage at 1500 to just under 2000 rpm. Wow! That's what I felt exactly. If I engage the clutch @ too low rev, it bogs a little bit. > Most definitely between 3000 and 5000 rpm its way smoother and more powerful than my stock setup That's what I felt too. I am not sure powerful but definitely smoother. > Oh, does not seem to HAVE to have heat right now to run well enough Probably true to mine too. It held on to around 70F with the heater turned off as far as I don't open up the throttle a lot. Also in my case, the steel pipe runners were really warm almost hot I can say. I don't think the heat is coming from my plenum heater. It must be coming from the heads via factory elbow connecting pieces. And maybe radiating heat from the crankcase also heats up the plenum and runners to some extent. [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Engine & Fuel System Modifications
about to mount first try at single carb setup
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