Carburetor Adapter 2-Barrel to 4-Barrel Universal
- Thread starter 82a
- Start date
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
Attachments
well anyone up for a four barrel try ...its probably choke enough to run ...not sure how well though
Someone here or at NGW posted a manifold similar to the VW one they found in the back of a Corvair. I found some pics that show the Corvair using a similar manifold ( 4 outlets) even though they were 6 cylinders. They would take a small four barrel. Jetting would need to be as easy to access as the 2 bbl Webers in my opinion.
id say ... they failed miserably to do it
slabghost
Well-known member
Never heard of a 200cfm 4 barrel.
Wolfie666
Member
They do make a 390cfm... just sayin...
I'm using a pair of 338 cfm Weber 40's.
I'm using a pair of 338 cfm Weber 40's.
badorderbob
Well-known member
There was a gentleman awhile back who did put a 4 barrel on. The problem he had was room, he cut out the 2nd. tubing to get the room. I'm not sure but I believe he used an Elderbrock 600cfm, not sure. He did make some type of a pan manifold, very generic and claimed he never done any jetting. I'll see if I can get any more info. :wave: Bob This was all I could find was just a write up,.....Hello All , this is just part of the posts we have from the old site I thought would be worth saving among many that we should all try to archieve and bring here !! Once there lost,... there lost !! Some of the following are about the 4 barrel conversion ;............................... To start we removed the original carbs as a unit, set it on an aluminum plate . Then made sure the elbows was setting square and drilled holes to hold the elbows in that position, (marked them) bolted them down after removing the
original carbs. decided what carb we would use and built the manifold to fit the carb base. one of them was just a square box. the other (on my old bike) we built as you see it, with a inverted V at the bottom. on the inside we put a curved plate to smooth the flow to the tubes. this did not help much. the only thing that we found was that it did not allow as much raw gas to collect when chokeing or pumping the throttle. it did not effect mileage or preformance. The only thing that we have run into is rust. and even putting rust coating as a sub base for paint it still comes threw. we are now makeing them out of Stainless and that solved that problem.. There are other tips we have found that are a must and will share them here or by email. We have built and sold several but are not in any type of production, just done as a favor to fellow bikers. having one built is not a cheap way to go.. if your handy and have the equipment or your buddies have it. Is more fun and satisfying . Hope this helps . Posted 12-25 07Just for the record, each carb on the wing pulls 150 CFM, times four==== 600 cfm, I am still running an Eldabrock 600 on a wing we built, it has been on now for three years, no problems, good mileage ,quick response, and easy to maintain. Oh yes best of all NO ICING,guess us arkies are
doing it right. There are pictures in the archives on this site.
I like the stainless box the best. looks good and no rust. holds a good shine. thanks for letting me blow off steam...Just can't stand to hear the hype about CFM's and the icing. Jiggs. Posted 10-12-08
We have just used ;the carb. as bought, in fact never took one apart to see what size came in them,,, probably not the smartest thing but as said, no problems, no ice, I will say that on cool mornings twenty five and above the warm up time takes a bit longer. with the radiator in front, good thermostat and the engine hear rising to keep things warm there just was not a day we can't ride, after a warm up. If we was in a hurry I just pulled the choke out just a mite and let it go that way till engine heat built up. Hope this helps. Jiggs. Posted 7-15-08 I will try to post some pictures of this conversion 8) Bob
original carbs. decided what carb we would use and built the manifold to fit the carb base. one of them was just a square box. the other (on my old bike) we built as you see it, with a inverted V at the bottom. on the inside we put a curved plate to smooth the flow to the tubes. this did not help much. the only thing that we found was that it did not allow as much raw gas to collect when chokeing or pumping the throttle. it did not effect mileage or preformance. The only thing that we have run into is rust. and even putting rust coating as a sub base for paint it still comes threw. we are now makeing them out of Stainless and that solved that problem.. There are other tips we have found that are a must and will share them here or by email. We have built and sold several but are not in any type of production, just done as a favor to fellow bikers. having one built is not a cheap way to go.. if your handy and have the equipment or your buddies have it. Is more fun and satisfying . Hope this helps . Posted 12-25 07Just for the record, each carb on the wing pulls 150 CFM, times four==== 600 cfm, I am still running an Eldabrock 600 on a wing we built, it has been on now for three years, no problems, good mileage ,quick response, and easy to maintain. Oh yes best of all NO ICING,guess us arkies are
doing it right. There are pictures in the archives on this site.
I like the stainless box the best. looks good and no rust. holds a good shine. thanks for letting me blow off steam...Just can't stand to hear the hype about CFM's and the icing. Jiggs. Posted 10-12-08
We have just used ;the carb. as bought, in fact never took one apart to see what size came in them,,, probably not the smartest thing but as said, no problems, no ice, I will say that on cool mornings twenty five and above the warm up time takes a bit longer. with the radiator in front, good thermostat and the engine hear rising to keep things warm there just was not a day we can't ride, after a warm up. If we was in a hurry I just pulled the choke out just a mite and let it go that way till engine heat built up. Hope this helps. Jiggs. Posted 7-15-08 I will try to post some pictures of this conversion 8) Bob
ive read all this before when I first joined the forums ...but never ever seen a pic of anything....I must say the discounters were ripping this guy apart....back then I thought the discounters were somewhat honest ...it was later I figured out that the discounters were more agenda driven than honest ....
you can tell the from this post how the purest and agenda driven crap was big back in 2007 and has been rolling strong since......personally im sure you can get it to run ....look at the dual weber set on oldwings they get them to work ....but in reality even if jetted right you cant fix carb passages of carb body ...eventually you get to where just to keep it all flowing brings on lag time .....i sure would like to run into one of the dual weber set ups or a four barrel set up with hooch to see how they run
personally the whole idea the single weber fits the frame ...dosnt require linkage from hell to hook everything up ....makes this a quick cheap and satisfying answer to wore out expensive to rebuild stock set up .... and why i went for this weber progressive carb...witch essentially is a two stage carb like a four barrel ...just sized better ...
im not discounting other setups if i had more access to things id try stuff ...im always up to play with something different ...
you can tell the from this post how the purest and agenda driven crap was big back in 2007 and has been rolling strong since......personally im sure you can get it to run ....look at the dual weber set on oldwings they get them to work ....but in reality even if jetted right you cant fix carb passages of carb body ...eventually you get to where just to keep it all flowing brings on lag time .....i sure would like to run into one of the dual weber set ups or a four barrel set up with hooch to see how they run
personally the whole idea the single weber fits the frame ...dosnt require linkage from hell to hook everything up ....makes this a quick cheap and satisfying answer to wore out expensive to rebuild stock set up .... and why i went for this weber progressive carb...witch essentially is a two stage carb like a four barrel ...just sized better ...
im not discounting other setups if i had more access to things id try stuff ...im always up to play with something different ...
gingerbreadman
Active member
I saw an 1100 GoldWing made into a reverse trike car. I saw it 3 years in a row at the same car show, and actually got to talk to the owner/builder for hours at a time. He was using the 1100 in stock block form, with a topping of early 1000 heads and custom ground cams. He had found a local cam grinder that had a computer cam design service and a flow bench, to port the heads and to build him an intake for a 650cfm Holley carb. He even used a double pumper! I can hardly believe he got that setup to run properly! He also had something machined to be able to run a high performance Chevy four cylinder distributor with a strong after market coil/coils.
I never got to hear or see it run, but there were some guys there with him (that owned an auto body shop in that town,) that backed up what he told me had been done to the engine. He also had a custom header on it which helped to evacuate the cylinders.
A lot of this kind of reminded me of "Engine Theory 101" It's not so much what you know, but rather knowing who does and how to ask in such a way that will get the answer you need. I've been messing around trying to get better mileage with at least a slight uptick in power on my own and friends' cars and trucks since I was 16 yrs old. As I think back, that was just after my pet dinosaur died..........
Speaking of headers, I do know that they can make your engine run cooler, with much more power, depending on how they are designed. A lot of you out there are older, as I am, and remember names such as Doug Thorley and his "Tri-Wi" headers to produce strong low end power to the Headman headers for strong top end, high end power.
Having the ability to get the burned gases out of the engine is almost as important as getting more pre-burn gas in. You can gain up to 80 percent more power and substantial fuel mileage increases by just making the flow in and out of gases more efficient.
My brother, I.Q. 164, is really big into creating better flow in and out of engines, and has been invited to work with
some very famous pit crews for stock car racers. Ya, I know his IQ doesn't really have much to do with smarts in the real world, but just saying.
I never got to hear or see it run, but there were some guys there with him (that owned an auto body shop in that town,) that backed up what he told me had been done to the engine. He also had a custom header on it which helped to evacuate the cylinders.
A lot of this kind of reminded me of "Engine Theory 101" It's not so much what you know, but rather knowing who does and how to ask in such a way that will get the answer you need. I've been messing around trying to get better mileage with at least a slight uptick in power on my own and friends' cars and trucks since I was 16 yrs old. As I think back, that was just after my pet dinosaur died..........
Speaking of headers, I do know that they can make your engine run cooler, with much more power, depending on how they are designed. A lot of you out there are older, as I am, and remember names such as Doug Thorley and his "Tri-Wi" headers to produce strong low end power to the Headman headers for strong top end, high end power.
Having the ability to get the burned gases out of the engine is almost as important as getting more pre-burn gas in. You can gain up to 80 percent more power and substantial fuel mileage increases by just making the flow in and out of gases more efficient.
My brother, I.Q. 164, is really big into creating better flow in and out of engines, and has been invited to work with
some very famous pit crews for stock car racers. Ya, I know his IQ doesn't really have much to do with smarts in the real world, but just saying.
hmmmmm sounds neat ... as dose the story above
