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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Wingunner" data-source="post: 70642" data-attributes="member: 2587">The table comes with a a wheel-stop and a separate clamp set-up. I took mine off and got a bent-tubing type chock to put on, but have not done so yet. The last few times I used it I did not have a front wheel holder of any type on the table, which was not a problem as one of these times it was up for front tire replacement.I strap the engine guards to the table on both sides, not too tight, but enough to stabilize it on the center stand. I also tie the stand forward to the guards so the bike cannot roll off it forward.I have used the table twice for changing out the rear tire. It is tight getting clearance but I am able to use the cut-out in the back to gain enough room to get the rear tire/wheel off to work on. It does require that the bike is forward on the table. Just about to the front edge. I think when I set it up for my front wheel chock I will add a little to the length using the square frame tubes underneath.I don't know if it is an issue with the heavier tables or not, but I am always VERY careful about not rocking the lifted bike when working on it, and as I mentioned I set the weight down on my saw horses. I don't trust any hydraulic jack enough to  put any of my needed body parts under the table without some kind of safety margin in my favor. I saw some pictures somewhere of some outriggers a guy made for his to give the base a wider footprint which is something I might look at too.The table lifts my bike fine (850 pounds I think) and I've talked to guys that have lifted heavier bikes too. You want to develop a light touch on  the release foot-lever. If you mash that one the bike drops really quick and might get ugly on the landing.</blockquote>

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