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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
Goldwing Magazine Articles
Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
Owners Manuals
GL1000
1975 GL1000
1978 GL1000
GL1100
1980 GL1100 Standard
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
1982 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Standard
1983 GL1100 Aspencade
1983 GL1100 Interstate
GL1200
1984 GL1200 Standard
1986 GL1200 Interstate
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
GL1500
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1000
Neutral light always on
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<blockquote data-quote="Workinman" data-source="post: 224805" data-attributes="member: 5673"><p>From my experience, the book is dead wrong in this case. You will not be able to flex your frame enough to get the switch out. Nowhere near enough! You are going to need to almost remove the engine from the frame to get enough room to get the switch out. You will need to remove BOTH headers, ALL engine mount bolts, AND the subframe on the left side. Support the engine with a small floor jack, as it will be ready to fall out at this point. It WONT fall out, as you still have quite a bit hooked up, including the driveshaft, but it will be totally loose from the frame. In my experience, this is the ONLY way you’re going to get that switch out. Clean your oil screen while you’ve got the engine hanging, and replace the screws with shorter screws so that next time you want to do it it won’t be darn near impossible.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Workinman, post: 224805, member: 5673"] From my experience, the book is dead wrong in this case. You will not be able to flex your frame enough to get the switch out. Nowhere near enough! You are going to need to almost remove the engine from the frame to get enough room to get the switch out. You will need to remove BOTH headers, ALL engine mount bolts, AND the subframe on the left side. Support the engine with a small floor jack, as it will be ready to fall out at this point. It WONT fall out, as you still have quite a bit hooked up, including the driveshaft, but it will be totally loose from the frame. In my experience, this is the ONLY way you’re going to get that switch out. Clean your oil screen while you’ve got the engine hanging, and replace the screws with shorter screws so that next time you want to do it it won’t be darn near impossible. [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1000
Neutral light always on
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