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SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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New timing belts
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<blockquote data-quote="mcgovern61" data-source="post: 21542" data-attributes="member: 59"><p>Gary, I take off my radiator for maximum clearance when doing my belts. After the engine is lined up on T-1 (and on the right stroke) I put a mark with whiteout on each pulley....on the crank pully I put a mark at 0 degrees straight up on the pully and marked the block directly above it to be sure that the crank stays lined up correctly throughout the procedure. I then marked the 90 degree marks on the outside of the pulleys for the same thing. If the crank and pulleys are at T-1 correctly, the cam pulleys should be lined up on their marks at perfect 90's before you remove the belts. The right pulley (left if looking at the engine) will move when the belt tensioner is released moving the pulley off the mark as you pull the old belt. It is the cam riding on the compressed spring that causes that.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mcgovern61, post: 21542, member: 59"] Gary, I take off my radiator for maximum clearance when doing my belts. After the engine is lined up on T-1 (and on the right stroke) I put a mark with whiteout on each pulley....on the crank pully I put a mark at 0 degrees straight up on the pully and marked the block directly above it to be sure that the crank stays lined up correctly throughout the procedure. I then marked the 90 degree marks on the outside of the pulleys for the same thing. If the crank and pulleys are at T-1 correctly, the cam pulleys should be lined up on their marks at perfect 90's before you remove the belts. The right pulley (left if looking at the engine) will move when the belt tensioner is released moving the pulley off the mark as you pull the old belt. It is the cam riding on the compressed spring that causes that. [/QUOTE]
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