Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
Goldwing Magazine Articles
Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
Owners Manuals
GL1000
1975 GL1000
1978 GL1000
GL1100
1980 GL1100 Standard
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
1982 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Standard
1983 GL1100 Aspencade
1983 GL1100 Interstate
GL1200
1984 GL1200 Standard
1986 GL1200 Interstate
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
GL1500
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1100
The Mayflower: AKA - I bought a non-running '82 GL1100
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="saganaga" data-source="post: 210478" data-attributes="member: 5445"><p>Rode it fifty miles today, tried matching RPMs, and that helped a lot. Early shifting seems preferred, probably because it is at lower RPMs. Checked the oil level afterwards, since a previous check showed oil higher than I remembered filling it, but the oil level was the same. I'll keep an eye on it for the next few hundred miles, but hopefully there isn't a head gasket or water pump leak.</p><p></p><p>New tires will come on Wednesday. I'm still bothered by the very tight caliper mount clearance on the front left and this is a good time to figure out a solution to get at least the (IIRC) 0.7mm of specified clearance. I was double-checking the parts diagram, and there's nothing missing or wrong. Front left and front right rotor are the same part number so they can't be reversed. Wheel only goes in one way due to the speedometer assembly. Axle is orientated correctly. My working hypothesis is that the axle nut was overtorqued at one time, causing it to ride farther in on the axle. Can anyone think of a reason why it would be a bad idea to throw a thin 15mm washer between the axle nut and the speedometer? </p><p></p><p>I'm also wondering if there's a gentle way to wash grease and grime off the engine without risking the 40 year old components. Any suggestions? I tried a brush and dish soap, then rinsing it off with a hose, but that only removed some of the grime. (I also temporarily killed the bike - three out of four of the spark plug recesses had clogged drain holes!) I'd like to get the engine clean enough to detect any possible leaks (so far, oil and coolant levels are not dropping).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="saganaga, post: 210478, member: 5445"] Rode it fifty miles today, tried matching RPMs, and that helped a lot. Early shifting seems preferred, probably because it is at lower RPMs. Checked the oil level afterwards, since a previous check showed oil higher than I remembered filling it, but the oil level was the same. I'll keep an eye on it for the next few hundred miles, but hopefully there isn't a head gasket or water pump leak. New tires will come on Wednesday. I'm still bothered by the very tight caliper mount clearance on the front left and this is a good time to figure out a solution to get at least the (IIRC) 0.7mm of specified clearance. I was double-checking the parts diagram, and there's nothing missing or wrong. Front left and front right rotor are the same part number so they can't be reversed. Wheel only goes in one way due to the speedometer assembly. Axle is orientated correctly. My working hypothesis is that the axle nut was overtorqued at one time, causing it to ride farther in on the axle. Can anyone think of a reason why it would be a bad idea to throw a thin 15mm washer between the axle nut and the speedometer? I'm also wondering if there's a gentle way to wash grease and grime off the engine without risking the 40 year old components. Any suggestions? I tried a brush and dish soap, then rinsing it off with a hose, but that only removed some of the grime. (I also temporarily killed the bike - three out of four of the spark plug recesses had clogged drain holes!) I'd like to get the engine clean enough to detect any possible leaks (so far, oil and coolant levels are not dropping). [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
GL1100
The Mayflower: AKA - I bought a non-running '82 GL1100
Top