Atila the Hun, 84 GL1200 disguised as a GL 1000

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sheesh ...i thought this stuff was supposed to great ... gee im glad to read this ... im not really in the bling game as it is costly and moves the bike absolutely nowhere ...but i like good looking bikes to a point ....i am much more interested in there running and how they ride...
 
Plastic does!!
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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=128658#p128658:1atb4xl1 said:
ekvh » Sat Aug 16, 2014 8:30 am[/url]":1atb4xl1]
Plastic does!!
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:smilie_happy: OK Eric, that was good for a morning coffee spit out laughing!! :smilie_happy:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=127421#p127421:hvrkuy2w said:
backlander » Sat Aug 02, 2014 7:58 pm[/url]":hvrkuy2w]
Managed to get the engine cleaned, sanded, taped and painted today. Decided to go with the "Gerry" engine color, I liked how his turned out. :good: I'm thinking about painting the frame the lighter Dupli-Color silver we been using for repainting the engines. I think that might go good with the darker engine color and the color blue I have p;icked out for the body. The final drive will be painted the same as the engine with the swing arm painted the same as the frame.

Then I have to decide what to do about the black part of the wheels and calipers to make it all work together.


Hi Mike, I have been following your project very closely as I plan to do the same to my GL1200I, but not necessarily to the same magnitude. For instance, I plan to convert it to look more like the GL1200 standard using as many parts from the 1200 standard or 1100 wherever possible. I'm very interested in knowing your progress and the final product pictures when available. Also, Please share a list of the parts you replaced, modified\painted with the level of complexity. Thank you.

Sam
84 GL1200
 
Update on world's longest build, LOL, seems like doctors and life keep interrupting my fun. :smilie_happy:

I don't know why I haven't already found it but it jumped up in me face when I flipped the frame over last night to install the lower steering head race. :Awe: Bad design by Honda, no way for water to escape the right lower frame tube= RUST.
I'm going to cut a skin over half pipe, cut out just enough of the rusted area to clean it up, red primer the original pipe, then weld the heavy wall skin over pipe to the original tube, shouldn't be able to notice it when it's all together.
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Anyways got the steering head races installed and I have the wiring harness stretched out on the bench going through it, eliminating any future wiring problems, hopefully. :beg:
 
Have not been able to locate any drain holes down there, but could be under the motor mount which is not easy to see. I cleaned it all out under there and never hooked a hole with the various tools i used and they don't show up with a flashlight. It will have some when I finish with it. Didn't get to work on Atila today but I rebuilt the water pump yesterday and cleaned up my work room which had become a nightmare. I'll get the front back on the engine and it will be sitting ready to go back in. Notice the weep hole was completely stopped up with hardened crud.
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Would like to know how you rebuilt your water pump,& where you sourced your parts,if it works with no issues.So far always replaced,but have 1 or 2 with bakelite impellers laying around,bearing's & mechanical seal are shot both laying by the trash can waiting to be pitched.Always thought should be a way to rebuild,especially after replacing a water pump 5 times,yes 5 new pumps from the dealer in a used bike bought from them.Last pump #5 was handed to me no plastic bag,sealing it up no box, a good sized scratch & oil leaking out of weep hole,parts guy just smiled & shrugged his shoulders.That one didn't squeak or leak, so knew they could be rebuilt,bearings are pricey, & don't know where to acquire the seal, & which one if found.
 
Denver, I think I would be looking for another dealer, not a fun job the first time much less the fifth time. I wrote a tutorial on how I rebuilt my pump and it's located here: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=4351

A few things have changed, #1, the source of the parts is Ebay with this seller: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-pump-rebu ... 2594cf90b9 same folks as from the original source, just a slightly different name, good people in all my dealings with them. The parts will come from Germany and look like this when you get them:
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#2, the internal snap ring on the metal impeller water pumps does not need to be installed on the rebuild, you can leave it out and disregard removing the impeller from the shaft, it was only there due to robotic assembly at the plant to keep from driving the shaft in to far. #3 There are separate kits for the bakelite and metal impleller pumps. Although the pumps look the same and will interchange, the internals of the pump are not the same and will not interchange with each other. You can see the difference in the shafts:
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I personally would not recommend rebuilding a bakelite pump, the impeller is like thirty years old and from what I found they become brittle and flake off or develop hairline cracks: and crumble when you try to take them apart.
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The first one I rebuilt is on my personal bike and it has over 7000 miles on it with no problems. It leaked maybe half a dozen drops of antifreeze on initial start up and the mechanical seal seated and it has not leaked since.

I order my gasket/seal kits from george fix off of Ebay, he's a good honest seller who doesn't rip you off on postage. Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=134568#p134568:2jidcgff said:
Denver » Fri Oct 31, 2014 7:19 am[/url]":2jidcgff]
Would like to know how you rebuilt your water pump,& where you sourced your parts,if it works with no issues.So far always replaced,but have 1 or 2 with bakelite impellers laying around,bearing's & mechanical seal are shot both laying by the trash can waiting to be pitched.Always thought should be a way to rebuild,especially after replacing a water pump 5 times,yes 5 new pumps from the dealer in a used bike bought from them.Last pump #5 was handed to me no plastic bag,sealing it up no box, a good sized scratch & oil leaking out of weep hole,parts guy just smiled & shrugged his shoulders.That one didn't squeak or leak, so knew they could be rebuilt,bearings are pricey, & don't know where to acquire the seal, & which one if found.

5 new water pumps on the same bike probably means you aren't using the proper silicate free coolant.
Just a guess. Or maybe you have sand in your water passages like I found were in mine after a flush with a garden hose. And or maybe they are selling you non Honda Chinese shit pumps.

I've seen pump rebuild kits on eBay, but people say rebuild metal impeller pumps, the Bakelite often breaks trying to get those apart.

Oh and it sounds like your stealer is giving you used parts.
 
This was back when the water pump fiasco was just starting,the silicate was a bunch of bull sh--, the problem was they put the bearings in,& without supporting inner race when the impeller shaft was pressed into the pump the bearings were stressed,wobbled,squeaked,& leaked.They recalled every water pump in the country,& for awhile they were unavailable,& on back order.learned this while on the phone with honda tech,asked your telling me there is no issues?He said none they will admit,we agreed what the problem was,between us,& silicate was not it.Been used for years with out any issues in cars & bikes.they tried to get me to rag on dealer.showed them when first pump went bad,they handed me another new one & all gaskets,orings,&seal for oil & water pumps,said bring pump back when your done,didn't charge me.Can't bit--,he said they wouldn't rag on me either,told them this was by no means my first time,& how every o ring seal,&gasket was ordered the day the bike was bought.
 
Work is progressing on Atila, going thru and repairing the left and right hand controls, someone did a hack job wiring around some of the switches instead of replacing them.
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These are the cuts I've decided to make to rake the neck, giving credit to HOTT's build of Ol' Sparky for the ideas https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... %27+sparky . I had to modify it some being that I'm raking a 1200 frame which is slightly different but the principle is the same.

Bottom of neck brace will be cut half way through, leaving the top radiator cross tube undisturbed. This will allow the head to fold backwards without allowing it to loose it's original position.
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Top to bottom rail brace will be severed on both sides at the bottom and will be trimmed to be rewelded to rail once the correct rake angle has been reached.
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The two side neck braces will be cut 3/4 way through to allow the neck to fold in a down and back direction.
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The top rails will be notched to allow the top of the neck to be pulled downward and back to achieve the correct angle.
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