Atila the Hun, 84 GL1200 disguised as a GL 1000

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Already tried that V, no give. Is that rod threaded to the right triangle mount, i'm thinking it just passes through it and the cap nut is put on. I got it drenched with PB Blaster for overnight. I've popped it pretty good with a big rod Brass Punch and a 2 lb sledge, won't budge.
 
My left footpeg stud broke off, too. Might take a lot of work to replace one, depending on where the break is. Mine was on the threaded part, which is mostly for clamping force. I leveled, center-drilled, and tapped for a bolt to go into it for clamping, still using the original for support:
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Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2
 

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Working on the front forks, drain screw heads are stripped out so I turned them over and let drain through the air suspension holes. Didn't much drain out, pumped the right fork up and down in pan and oil will drain that way. The left fork will not compress at all even though some oil drained out of it. ? . Also, how much pressure should I expect from the top caps when they are unscrewed, can they be held in place by hand without flying across the room ?
 
Managed to get the engine cleaned, sanded, taped and painted today. Decided to go with the "Gerry" engine color, I liked how his turned out. :good: I'm thinking about painting the frame the lighter Dupli-Color silver we been using for repainting the engines. I think that might go good with the darker engine color and the color blue I have p;icked out for the body. The final drive will be painted the same as the engine with the swing arm painted the same as the frame.

Then I have to decide what to do about the black part of the wheels and calipers to make it all work together.
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Looking great! Polished wheels and calipers might look right with the paint scheme but that's a LOT of work!
 
How much would having your frame powder coated cost? It might not be that much, depends on if you have any reasonably priced shops in your area. After all that work to break it down, it would be a shame to have it only rattle canned. That stuff just doesn't last on frames, esp around the wheels and where road grit dirt water and crap gets to it. I don't mind rattle can paint for more protected items or parts that can easily be taken off and repainted, but this is probably the one and only chance you'll have on the frame.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=128539#p128539:3hqh2c8l said:
83gl1200 » Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:42 pm[/url]":3hqh2c8l]
How much would having your frame powder coated cost? It might not be that much, depends on if you have any reasonably priced shops in your area. After all that work to break it down, it would be a shame to have it only rattle canned. That stuff just doesn't last on frames, esp around the wheels and where road grit dirt water and crap gets to it. I don't mind rattle can paint for more protected items or parts that can easily be taken off and repainted, but this is probably the one and only chance you'll have on the frame.


Depending on how bad your frame is I would rather patch the 30year old powder coating with rattle can than run the risk of stripping ( sand blasting the frame to remove the original powder coat) and using new powder coating which I beleive is not half as good as the original IMHO.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=128540#p128540:1x6afo0w said:
Ansimp » Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:26 am[/url]":1x6afo0w]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=128539#p128539:1x6afo0w said:
83gl1200 » Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:42 pm[/url]":1x6afo0w]
How much would having your frame powder coated cost? It might not be that much, depends on if you have any reasonably priced shops in your area. After all that work to break it down, it would be a shame to have it only rattle canned. That stuff just doesn't last on frames, esp around the wheels and where road grit dirt water and crap gets to it. I don't mind rattle can paint for more protected items or parts that can easily be taken off and repainted, but this is probably the one and only chance you'll have on the frame.


Depending on how bad your frame is I would rather patch the 30year old powder coating with rattle can than run the risk of stripping ( sand blasting the frame to remove the original powder coat) and using new powder coating which I beleive is not half as good as the original IMHO.

Please explain risk, what risk? And is all new powder coating really less durable than the 30 year old stuff? I am not up on this info, nor am I ready to take this bike down to the frame, but my frame could sure use a lot of touching up. So many spots that I wouldn't want to spot fix that many areas, esp if it won't hold up. Rattle can paint can look great but I've never found any that really lasts.
 
I am seeing powder coated items rusting after 5 years or less. It seems that either the powder coaters aren't using enough product or the product is not as thick as earlier products that were used here in Oz. I have also seen quite a few that have cracked and exposed the metal underneath which then rusts. Also older powder coated products seemed to be able to be damaged and not have the coating fall off as easily as newer powder coated items.
 

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