Atila the Hun, 84 GL1200 disguised as a GL 1000

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I read where one guy I think on the kawasaki forum had custom triples made that not only increased rake but lowered the fork tubes too. I don't recall the cost but it wasn't cheap.
 
I idea is to go ahead while I have it down and gain about 4 degrees because it is possible that I will be adding a sidecar or making a trike out of this at a later date. I don't think it will hurt the handling while it's still in a two wheel configuration. What do you think ?



Oh, I forgot, I had to come back and add, I think it look's sexy !!!!!! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:
 
I don't know what effect that rake would have on a 2 wheel wing but for a sidecar I'd be looking for a leading link front end.
Pricey but I hear it's the best with a sidecar.
 
I've read and heard of the leading link, I think I could hand build one of those but I got the impression that they don't work to well when the sidecar is not attached, is that what you have heard also ?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=119699#p119699:ju3ayd9q said:
backlander » Sat May 31, 2014 7:07 pm[/url]":ju3ayd9q]
I've read and heard of the leading link, I think I could hand build one of those but I got the impression that they don't work to well when the sidecar is not attached, is that what you have heard also ?
Yes I've heard the same.
In fact Suzie is very adamant that it's not safe to ride 2 wheels with it.
 
If you have it stripped down, and you can build a leading link, then you can simply cut and rake the front out. The best detail of the mod is HOTT's Ol'Sparky build at NGW. Trickier with the 1000, but 1100 and 1200 are pretty easy. Some have kicked it quite a bit and have ground clearance issues with stock forks. There longer 41 mm Honda front ends that will bolt right up to a 1200. I used a Magna, shortened the forks 2" internally and it is still high, but cruises great and steers easy due to the Magna's built in trail geometry. I had to make my own Fork brace. https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... %27+sparky
 
Believe I'll do the "Hott" mod to the neck, makes a lot of sense. Meanwhile I have to deal with another problem, small rust pits on the chrome fork tubes, anyone know of a solution, they will not polish out.
WP_20140602_002.jpg
Also need to know best, cheapest oem supplier of rebuild seal kit for the forks if anyone has that info handy.
 
Could try a soak of vinegar in getting the rust cleaned up. Maybe wrap with vinegar soaked rags and plastic wrap. Not certain it works but rusty tools come clean soaked in vinegar. Then there will be the issue of how to fill the pits so the seals work and the rust doesn't return.
 
Just sent the CBX forks off to the hardchromer, they were much worse than yours Mike. No easy replacements available so $320 AUD seemed like the only way out for my mate. The last immaculate CBX that I saw went for $17k AUD and thus one should turn out really nice as well. My Mate inherited this one from his uncle so he has no intention of ever selling it.
 
If you do the HOTT chop, there is some leeway in where you cut. I did it just like Ric did.( HOTT) A follow up by someone else cut the two cross pieces, just above and behind the radiator, closer to the neck. He was able to rejoin it neatly and not show as much. You need to think where you cut and make it where it leaves the most room to maneuver your welding apparatus. I Hog-tied myself in a few spots. With the 1200 frame, I think you can get the two big pieces on the neck to realign perfectly, the 1000 is more difficult. You will be lowering it some with stock forks, and since yours are pitted, you might be able to find replacements a little longer.
 
Everything has gone well stripping it except for a couple of things, the footpeg stud will have to be cut out and a new one welded in and I'm not having any luck getting the long rear top motor mount bolt out. I've soaked it, shocked it, tried to turn it, had unbolt the triangle mounts from frame to get the frame off.
 

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