Atila the Hun, 84 GL1200 disguised as a GL 1000

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If impact fails,drill off head. MOST TIMES rest turns out easily with vise grips. Saves me a lot of aggravation, replacements readily available at local machine shop supply shop.May be an allen instead of phillips, so much the better. Always have something to use today, stainless they may need to order, but bolts with a black finish that are a better grade than stock, are probably here today,& inexpensive, one of my favorite words.
Hope you don't need drill,bit's, & E Z outs,they can really ruin a day. GOOD LUCK
 
Denver, my luck kicked me in the butt, it broke off even with the head. One reason I decided to pull the engine, I didn't want to have to stand on my head to drill it and remove it. I want to eyeball it when I do. :shock: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
There is also a freeze spray available that can very used to help free up stuck screws/bolts. Unfortunately that needs to be used before you ruin the screw or snap the head.
 
I would spray it with pb blaster.. and let it soak.. if you look at it there should be a lip or peak at the break from thread to center.. you may be able to take a narrow chisel or such and tap it in the direction it needs to move to come out.. have used this many times to remove broken bolts and studs... put the chisel on the peak and tap with hammer/mallet ... as long as the pressure is placed more towards the center edge the threads will survive and just may need to be cleaned up from the accidental bump that could occur..saves drilling and retapping the holes ..... just my old school broken screw removal method... (I am not a fully stocked tool chest yet..)
 
Impact works well to shock the threads loose, main reason I believe that impact screwdrivers work so well :yes:
 
Have to agree about impact drivers, & what we called panther pi-- when i was young. With careful use you can get many loose & reuse if you don't bugger the head. Some times the worst seems to happen,& it bites you in the a--, but not always,& not even most of the time. Thankfully, keep pluggin away, it gets done if ya keep at it!
Those steering bearing's were past worn alright you'll love the improvement, like power steering,with new bearing's & grease.
 
I believe impact drivers do most of their work by a) having better, sharper bits with straight flutes and b) transferring a shock to the threads to break them free. Problem with them is they are also effective for breaking the heads off of Honda JIS screws. Because of this, I have changed to tapping on the stubborn screws with just the bit and a small hammer, then using the driver for a handle on the bit. So far this has worked for me. Sure wish I could afford a set of good JIS screwdrivers!

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2
 
The best screwdriver bits IMHO are Snap on replaceable bits for their ratchet screwdrivers. They have little grip shoulders on the reversing side to stop the bits coming up out of the screws. I should also mention with Phillips screws ( also Pozi drive) the problem occurs as you twist the driver/bit starts to rise up out of the screw and you have less contact point and this usually damages the screw head. I always try to apply more downwards force than twisting force so this doesn't occur, another advantage of an impact screwdriver as the main forces is downwards. :yes:
 
The Phillips was designed to spin out, a kind of self-torque feature.The JIS was not. If you can get true JIS bits, you will have few stripped heads. If you have good eyes and look at the two, the Phillips has rounded edges in the valley, whereas the JIS has a true 90* valley. That's what allows them to go in deeper. If you grind the tip off a Phillips, it may help it go in deeper, but the rounded edge will still make it want come out.
 
If the head of the screw strips out, dont knock the head off. Instead use the indent in the head to help get your drill started straight. I will work like a center punch mark. You know your gonna have to drill em out at that point anyway so you may as well use the already jazzed up screwdriver slots to start the drill correctly. Start with a smaller drill than needed to ensure you are good and centered. Also a set of left hand drills will get the screw moving in the right direction. They often screw themselves out on their own. Plenty of penterating fluid as well before you even begin the drilling process.

Removing old screws is rarely an easy task. The LH drills can sometimes bring you a little luck though...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=119327#p119327:1b25h50p said:
ekvh » Wed May 28, 2014 7:36 am[/url]":1b25h50p]
The Phillips was designed to spin out, a kind of self-torque feature.The JIS was not. If you can get true JIS bits, you will have few stripped heads. If you have good eyes and look at the two, the Phillips has rounded edges in the valley, whereas the JIS has a true 90* valley. That's what allows them to go in deeper. If you grind the tip off a Phillips, it may help it go in deeper, but the rounded edge will still make it want come out.
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it take a real stupid book smart guy with papers to think something like that has value LOL :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :cheeky:
 
Traveled to Hooks, Tx yesterday to pick up my Sundowner seat, possibly for Atila project. The handlebars came in the mail also while I was gone.
WP_20140531_002.jpg
WP_20140531_006.jpg
I also picked up a quick detach windshield and two more leather T-bags for another project in the works.
 
ekvh":1866zait said:
I stand by my stupid, book smart comment.
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And how many know that most "Phillips" screws on Japanese vehicles are actually JIS? And, curse them because they use the wrong tools on them?

Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2
 
Mean while, back at the ranch, has anyone tried changing the rake on a GL1200 economically ? I've researched the options, offset triple trees and such, has anyone had some built in a machine shop?
 
No but I've been thinking about that myself. Offset triples would be my first choice if I could find a set at a decent price.
 

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