My 1987 1200 Interstate

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My 1200 is still a 600 :Awe:

I first checked to see if I had a spark on the #2 and #4 plugs and it was there, then I changed the plugs, no help. I pulled the wires off of the 84 and put them on, no help.

I either have a carb issue or a compression issue. The search continues. :builder:
 
If the compression is down on 2 & 4, I'd look at the timing belt since the same belt drives both cylinders.
2 & 4 share the same fuel delivery hose. Any chance that hose is blocked or kinked? Does fuel run out when you loosen the carb drain screws?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=189366#p189366:23jvp43y said:
PurpleGL1200I » Wed Apr 12, 2017 9:01 am[/url]":23jvp43y]
If the compression is down on 2 & 4, I'd look at the timing belt since the same belt drives both cylinders.
2 & 4 share the same fuel delivery hose. Any chance that hose is blocked or kinked? Does fuel run out when you loosen the carb drain screws?

The carb is my next step. I completely overlooked the bowl drain screws. I had to take care of a squealing speedo on the 81 last night, so I didn't spend much time on the 87.
 
The carb bowls on the 2 & 4 cylinders are filling with fuel. The ignition system checks out electrically, as best as I can tell. It may be time for a complete cleaning and rebuild on the carbs rather than the simple cleansing that I did to it.
 
Try the carbs off my 1200. If they work just install your rack loosely on my bike. I'll mess with them later.
 
Looks like Randakk gets some more of my business...

I put the carbs from my 84 Standard on the 87 Interstate and this is what I got.

[video]https://youtu.be/feDRnXrwg_U[/video]

Then exhaust is only half way on and those carbs really need to be synced, but at least it is running on 4.

Now I can move on to other things.
 
I am going to be replacing the plug wires and caps. Will any universal 7MM spiral wound spark plug wire work? It looks like OEM is $14 each whereas the universal stuff is $2 a foot.
 
Any plug wire will work. Best and easiest is of course the spiral wound copper wires at 7mm. They go on exactly like oem wires. Suppression wires although not recommended will also work but they do not need the resistance caps and can be difficult to connect properly. All styles of plug wires will indeed transmit the electric charge to the plugs as designed. 7mm copper has lasted 30 years or more so I'd stick with that.
 
I fought with the exhaust system for two hours last night before I could get it to succumb to my will. Then it was on to the cooling system when I realized I do not have any anti-freeze. Oh darn. I had to make a run to the local store to pick some up.

:moped:
 
Tonight I am waiting for parts - plugs, wires, and caps, so I started working on some of those tedious things that need to be done but you never seem to have the time to do it. I've slowly been repairing the major damage and large holes is the fairing. I thought I was done - after looking at the after picture, I realize I missed a few small holes on the lower right panel.

I absolutely suck at taking "before" pictures, so this is as close as I can get.

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Have you ever tried to match 30 year old sun faded paint? I wasn't about to try, so I went with black.

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I also need to do something about that large washer under the switch. I am going to keep the hole there for my driving lights, but that washer needs to GO!
 
Doesn't look all that bad, without all the scratches, and old paint. Someones solution to a base surround for the switch, that they had on hand, & not really a terrible choice.
 
I hate chrome!!!!

When it is neglected for year after year after year, it looks like this...

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With a little work it can almost look new again...

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So, the moral of that story: either clean it or paint it. Chrome is over rated any way.
 

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