Need advice again! Car trouble...

Classic Goldwings

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173935#p173935:3te14ldp said:
slabghost » Wed May 25, 2016 11:56 am[/url]":3te14ldp]
Sounds like you're on the right track now.

Oh and do you still think I should add Qt of ATF in the fuel tank?
It will not harm anything, right?
 
Shouldn't hurt anything. I use it on my cars and trucks here. 1 quart in a 20 gallon tank isn't much at all. When I first got my 78 I was adding two quarts every other fill up.
 
The 4.6 in your van is a single overhead cam(cam on both heads, similar to the Goldwings), two valves per cylinder. :yes:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173946#p173946:31ht0nn8 said:
dan filipi » Thu May 26, 2016 7:42 am[/url]":31ht0nn8]
Personally I wouldn't run ATF in anything that has computer controls. May be good, may be bad but I just don't know and would rather not push it.
Tried it in the Forester without any problems so far. I do wonder long term about the Catalytic convertor though :yes:
 
Suit yourselves. I've run it in my 96 Subaru Legacy and my 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Never had an issue from the ATF. Subaru got sidelined for steering issues. Cavalier got sidelined for junk fuel pump. Do not risk anything more than is comfortable to you. I've never heard of or read about ATF or any other oils containing lead but I suppose it may be possible. I have no problems using ATF in any machine I have because I buy only what I can afford to purchase outright. So far I've not been disappointed.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173949#p173949:csgysg4g said:
slabghost » Thu May 26, 2016 8:35 am[/url]":csgysg4g]
Suit yourselves. I've run it in my 96 Subaru Legacy and my 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Never had an issue from the ATF. Subaru got sidelined for steering issues. Cavalier got sidelined for junk fuel pump. Do not risk anything more than is comfortable to you. I've never heard of or read about ATF or any other oils containing lead but I suppose it may be possible. I have no problems using ATF in any machine I have because I buy only what I can afford to purchase outright. So far I've not been disappointed.
:good:
 
$40-$60 each is "normal" around here, depending on the brand. It's a crap shoot on OE or aftermarket stuff...might be really good, might be junk that only last a couple of months. The OE coils were crap to begin with, compared to other domestic manufacturers. Buy what you can afford for the time being, but check the warranty on whatever brand you get...some have no warranty at all, some might be a one year deal...check first. Usually, the longer the stated warranty, the better luck you'll have if one or more fails in a short time. It wouldn't bother me to get the ones you posted the link for if I needed them. :good:
 
Go with the aftermarket coils, I run them in my 5.4 Triton and have had no problem. I purchase through Rock Auto, don't remember the price but they are the least expensive. Also I like Napa parts most of the time.

I haven't read the entire thread, but someone told you it is illegal to read the fault codes in CA. I live in CA and that is nonsense, whoever told you that was either too lazy to do it or too stupid to know how to. Buy yourself a scanner and read them yourself, get a subscription to ALLDATA for your Van and you will have all the information you could possibly want regarding your van. If you decide to get AllDATA and need any help navigating it PM me and I'll walk you through it, it will overwhelm you with information. Not only that you will have all the current service bulletins and updates.
 
I just checked Rock Auto for coils, The Denso coils are 23.79 the Motorcraft (OEM) are 41.89, I use the Denso, you will see cheaper coils on that site but remember you get what you pay for, some are real junk, Denso normally makes good stuff.
 
Thanks every one!

I may go with Denso or the cheapest I can get (LOL).

I got a little overwhelmed that I have to remove so many parts to just replace spark plugs but come to think of it, it is the same as removing the fairing and stuff to service OldWing. Changing spark plugs on modern motorcyles (especially inline-four like CB1300) is also cumbersome I hear.

I may buy a code reader if E-150 gives me more trouble in the future (hopefully not but it's high mileage so I won't be surprised.)

I need to take a look at air filter also. This van got unknown service records so I should establish a base line by doing stuff like that myself.
 
Two other things you want to do then. Check the transmission fluid, if it is dark red, replace and flush it, Also flush the cooling system. These engines have aluminum heads and have a history electrolysis causing head gasket failures.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173993#p173993:jplqltl5 said:
OldWrench » Thu May 26, 2016 5:31 pm[/url]":jplqltl5]
Two other things you want to do then. Check the transmission fluid, if it is dark red, replace and flush it, Also flush the cooling system. These engines have aluminum heads and have a history electrolysis causing head gasket failures.

I will.
Thank you for the info.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173994#p173994:25enlin3 said:
dan filipi » Thu May 26, 2016 5:34 pm[/url]":25enlin3]
Air filter brings up a good point. Engine probably just needs a good going over, plugs, air and fuel filters, radiator flush. All the basics.

Yes, I will do the going over.
For some reason, car maintenance has been some one else's job for me but I should really start to do it myself. I will have 100% confidence what has been done that way. Like vintage motorcycle maintenence.
 
One more thing.
What shop manual should I get?
I asked at local O Reilly but they didn't have it.
I googled online and Ford factory repair manual costs $109. I guess it's much better than Clymer and Haynes stuff...
 

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