Make your own clutch nut socket

dan filipi · Jan 30, 2010

I made this socket from a old cheapy 1/2" drive 6 point 1-1/8th inch socket using a t square and a dremel.
Broke a few dremel disks but I had the tool I needed in less than a hour.
This fits the 1100 clutch nut.

clutchsocket1

dan filipi
Jan 30, 2010

clutchsocket2

dan filipi
Jan 30, 2010

ClutchSocket

dan filipi
Jan 30, 2010

vulkan 95 · Jan 30, 2010

Excellent job. I fabricate the most of special tools I need, but they seldom look as clean as your clutch removal socket. Those Dremels are handy. :clapping: :clapping:

dan filipi · Jan 30, 2010

I fabricate the most of special tools I need, but they seldom look as clean as your clutch removal socket.

Whatever works is my motto :builder:

Dave · Feb 8, 2010

dan filipi":24d0xxg4 said:
I fabricate the most of special tools I need, but they seldom look as clean as your clutch removal socket.

Click to expand...

Whatever works is my motto :builder:

I made 1 that looks a lot like that for the swingarm bushing lock ring. The right tool for the job is one that don't stuff it up for next time :music:

philc · Feb 25, 2013

Dan,
The only one I could find is a 12 point, Im assuming that wont work.
The search goes on.
philc

Ansimp · Feb 25, 2013

Nice job!

slabghost · Feb 26, 2013

philc":2moymvnb said:
Dan,
The only one I could find is a 12 point, Im assuming that wont work.
The search goes on.
philc

I see no reason a 12 point socket wouldn't work. :read:

dan filipi · Feb 26, 2013

slabghost":16q5ib5c said:
philc":16q5ib5c said:

Dan,
The only one I could find is a 12 point, Im assuming that wont work.
The search goes on.
philc

Click to expand...

I see no reason a 12 point socket wouldn't work. :read:

It should work. Just dremel or grind out/cut so you have 4 tabs in a + pattern.

philc · Mar 7, 2013

Purchased Motion Pro clutch nut tool, gonna grind it to fit the new nut.
As for holding the clutch assembly while removing the nut, my rear brake and wheel are both off the bike right now so I cant use the rear brake to hold it. I checked the Wingovations sight and it says to hold the "crankshaft timing pulley bolt"
I am going to assume this means the bolt used to adj valve clearance at the rear of the engine?
There is no photo of the bolt in the guide so I wanted to bounce this off you folks to make sure I am understanding this before I start.
Philc

dan filipi · Mar 7, 2013

If you can get an air impact in there it will spin right off.
Otherwise yes, hold the stator nut used to turn engine when adjusting valves or the front crankshaft bolt but ONLY IF holding the stator nut does not hold in the direction of loosening. I'm not sure.
Once the stator nut is broken loose it can be a real bear getting it tight enough so it doesn't loosen by itself.
I've found blue loc tite on clean threads is needed to keep it from loosening.

philc · Mar 7, 2013

Thanks

brianinpa · Mar 7, 2013

Is the clutch nut the same size as the steering stem nut?

dan filipi · Mar 7, 2013

brianinpa":2myga27z said:
Is the clutch nut the same size as the steering stem nut?

Steve83 would know for sure, he has the special double ended socket.

philc · Mar 7, 2013

I may have forgotten to mention that the engine is still in the frame, seems almost impossible to get air impact wrench in there, center stand in the way. I would really like to get this done by Monday, I cant afford to have the stator nut come off and have to fix that as well. Time is precious, working 60 hour weeks. Dunno what to do next, clarification (photo) of "crankshaft timing pulley bolt" is needed.
Dont want to put wheel back on only to have to remove it again in order to replace the old tire.
Thanks again
philc

dan filipi · Mar 7, 2013

philc":1wpa1b33 said:
I may have forgotten to mention that the engine is still in the frame, seems almost impossible to get air impact wrench in there, center stand in the way. I would really like to get this done by Monday, I cant afford to have the stator nut come off and have to fix that as well. Time is precious, working 60 hour weeks. Dunno what to do next, clarification (photo) of "crankshaft timing pulley bolt" is needed.
Dont want to put wheel back on only to have to remove it again in order to replace the old tire.
Thanks again
philc

If you put the socket and ratchet on the clutch and a socket and ratchet on the stator nut, when you turn the clutch socket if the ratchet handle goes up then that would mean in order to hold it from turning you would loosen the stator nut. If the stator nut ratchet goes down (or clicks like a ratchet does) then you would be holding the stator nut in the direction of tightening, which is good.
Sorry, I just can't remember which way the rotation is on the 2.

Steve83 · Mar 7, 2013

To Brianinpa, yes, the clutch nut and the upper steering stem nut are the same size.

Philc, the clutch and stator turn in oppoosite directions, so if you hold one while loosening the other, either one could come loose. The good thing is: the clutch nut is torqued to 44 ft-lbs and the stator bolt to 62 ft-lbs, so the clutch nut SHOULD come loose first.

brianinpa · Mar 7, 2013

Steve83":2f6db8f7 said:
To Brianinpa, yes, the clutch nut and the upper steering stem nut are the same size.

Thanks Steve! I made one for the stem so looks like I killed two birds with one spare socket.

philc · Mar 8, 2013

Still cant find a reference to the "crankshaft timing pulley bolt" (Wingovations quote) anywhere in the useless Clymer manual.
Sure hate to undo the wrong bolt, cant find any photos online either.

joedrum · Mar 8, 2013

its out there ....but you know if i didnt find one torque spec that wouldmt stop me from rebuilding and entire motor in the middle of a farm field ...but info is here somewhere in the tech section id say

dan filipi · Mar 8, 2013

philc":3a28qm40 said:
Still cant find a reference to the "crankshaft timing pulley bolt" (Wingovations quote) anywhere in the useless Clymer manual.
Sure hate to undo the wrong bolt, cant find any photos online either.

In picture 1 the arrow is pointing to the crank bolt.
Picture 2 the arrow is pointing to the stator nut cap.
When that cap is removed there's a hex head nut used to turn the engine.

"crankshaft timing pulley bolt" isn't really an accurate description for either one of these points, at least not what they are generally referred to as.
More like,
1. Front Crankshaft bolt.
2. Stator nut is what this one is usually referred to as.
Either one of them can be used to turn the engine or keep it from turning.

Make your own clutch nut socket

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