- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,409
- Reaction score
- 246
- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
This is a tutorial on how to bypass the overheated stator plug with the 3 yellow wires next to the battery.
The procedure is to cut the plug out, add a short section to each wire, solder and insulate.
You'll see some other wires in the pictures following, the prior owner installed a Ham radio so there are many hacks into the wiring, some are charred.
Firstly this is where plug is, just left of the battery. The battery is out of the bike in these pictures:
The right plug with the 3 yellow wires disconnected:
This plug is in pretty good shape, a rare find. Most are charred black and melted at the pins and around the plastic.
Kinda hated to sacrifice them for this How-To but here goes:
Cut the wires right at the male and female plugs. There's no need to keep track of which wire connected thru the plug, the stator doesn't care.
Cut back the outer jacket of the wires going to the stator and cut back or unwrap the tape around the wires going to the regulator rectifier to expose the 3 wires on both:
Then strip back about an inch of insulation on all 6 wires:
Because the wires are too short to connect them together, we have to add about 4 inches of new wire to each of the 3 yellow wires.
I used 16 gauge wire for the new section because that's the size of the original stator wires. Nothing will be gained by using heavier wire like 14 or 12 gauge. Do not use smaller wire like 18, 20, 22 gauge etc. That would cause a resistance to current flow and may overheat or damage the stator.
To join the wires this is how I do it. Not a Western Union splice but plenty strong for this repair, easier to do, and plenty capable of providing a good current path after it's soldered properly:
(If your going to use shrink tubing, put it over the wire before twisting them together)
Twist the wire back on itself in opposite directions:
Do this on all 3 yellow wires:
Then solder all 6:
The trick to soldering to get a good solid connection that will not come apart is you gotta get the wire hot enough to melt the solder. If the wire isn't hot enough the solder won't flow. If the solder is heated by the iron to "make" the solder "stick" to the wire, that joint WILL fail.
This is how I do it:
When I solder I apply some solder to the hot tip while holding the tip to the wire. This helps conduct heat to the wire.
Touch the solder to the wire, when it flows easily move the solder to the other parts of the splice until the splice is completely covered in solder. When done properly the entire splice will be covered with shiny molten solder while the hot tip is touching it.
After soldering, the connection has to be insulated.
Many guys like to use shrink tubing. I'm not a big fan of it, personally I think it's over rated. I suppose it looks better but all I've ever used is good quality PVC electrical tape, Scotch Super 33+. It's UL rated to 600 volts -18 to +115 Celsius.
Home Cheapo sells it for under $4 a roll.
Give at least 2 wraps over the bare solder and wire, that will provide much thicker insulation than shrink tubing:
Wrap the rest of the wires with tape and tuck it next to the frame.
So that's about it!
Any comments are welcome.
The procedure is to cut the plug out, add a short section to each wire, solder and insulate.
You'll see some other wires in the pictures following, the prior owner installed a Ham radio so there are many hacks into the wiring, some are charred.
Firstly this is where plug is, just left of the battery. The battery is out of the bike in these pictures:
The right plug with the 3 yellow wires disconnected:
This plug is in pretty good shape, a rare find. Most are charred black and melted at the pins and around the plastic.
Kinda hated to sacrifice them for this How-To but here goes:
Cut the wires right at the male and female plugs. There's no need to keep track of which wire connected thru the plug, the stator doesn't care.
Cut back the outer jacket of the wires going to the stator and cut back or unwrap the tape around the wires going to the regulator rectifier to expose the 3 wires on both:
Then strip back about an inch of insulation on all 6 wires:
Because the wires are too short to connect them together, we have to add about 4 inches of new wire to each of the 3 yellow wires.
I used 16 gauge wire for the new section because that's the size of the original stator wires. Nothing will be gained by using heavier wire like 14 or 12 gauge. Do not use smaller wire like 18, 20, 22 gauge etc. That would cause a resistance to current flow and may overheat or damage the stator.
To join the wires this is how I do it. Not a Western Union splice but plenty strong for this repair, easier to do, and plenty capable of providing a good current path after it's soldered properly:
(If your going to use shrink tubing, put it over the wire before twisting them together)
Twist the wire back on itself in opposite directions:
Do this on all 3 yellow wires:
Then solder all 6:
The trick to soldering to get a good solid connection that will not come apart is you gotta get the wire hot enough to melt the solder. If the wire isn't hot enough the solder won't flow. If the solder is heated by the iron to "make" the solder "stick" to the wire, that joint WILL fail.
This is how I do it:
When I solder I apply some solder to the hot tip while holding the tip to the wire. This helps conduct heat to the wire.
Touch the solder to the wire, when it flows easily move the solder to the other parts of the splice until the splice is completely covered in solder. When done properly the entire splice will be covered with shiny molten solder while the hot tip is touching it.
After soldering, the connection has to be insulated.
Many guys like to use shrink tubing. I'm not a big fan of it, personally I think it's over rated. I suppose it looks better but all I've ever used is good quality PVC electrical tape, Scotch Super 33+. It's UL rated to 600 volts -18 to +115 Celsius.
Home Cheapo sells it for under $4 a roll.
Give at least 2 wraps over the bare solder and wire, that will provide much thicker insulation than shrink tubing:
Wrap the rest of the wires with tape and tuck it next to the frame.
So that's about it!
Any comments are welcome.
