Where did the newbie go bad?

I just went through the carbs on my friends GL 1100; full teardown clean (sonic bath) rebuild, I used most of the old parts, except the seats and valves for the floats, those look good in the kit I got so I ran them, but I reused the mains and the pilots, (which were the pressfit type that I pulled out clean and put back). also did stem seals timing belts flushed out the fuel tank new fuel lines/ filter (I added an extra one in front of the main one temporarily) got everything back together. It will not fire on its own. It will run off starting fluid. I double checked my Cam alignments, compression is pretty good close to 120 on 1, 2 and four, number three is only about 90. What could I have done to make this thing not run? Spark looks good (new plugs) bowls are full of gas. Valve lash is good.

First question is, did you bench sync the carbs before installing them? Also, did you clean out the accelerator port in each carb?

Yes bench synch. I did not do whatever is happening in the pic with a pin though.

That is where the accelerator pump pushes fuel into the individual carb. These carbs usually fire the engine right away even when not fully synced. If ether works and then stalls, I am going to lean towards not getting enough fuel. Before reinstalling, did you check that the CV slides would easily spring up and down in their covers? Stuck slides can play with the air mixture quite a bit. It has been a few years since I have had my 1100 and I am pulling from an old man's memory to remember all of the issues these carbs can have. I rebuilt two sets of 1100 carbs and they would pop off the engine as soon as the starter spun.

I don't remember seeing that orifice mentioned in the videos and tutorials I watched. Yes, the slides worked well. I can pull the carbs out again of course but with no idea what is wrong it would seem better to go in after something. It is not even trying to fire on it's own fuel but will immediately fire on starter fluid. I would think it would at least try to run on at least one cylinder and it doesn't. Weird.

Might be a silly question, but how old is the gas?

Well, the gas is fresh, but I had flushed the tank and I tried really hard to get all of my solvents out and dry it out and of course the lines are new and the filter is new but it’s not impossible that the fuel might not be that awesome. at one point I took the drainings from a carb let it soak a paper towel and put a match to it and it burned mightily so I don’t think it’s contaminated fuel. But that’s a good theory seems like something with the fuel, either it is contaminated or it’s not being delivered from the bowl to the cylinder.

I did notice today that the choke cable wasn't fully engaging choke, when I manually pulled the lever it tried to fire but then it seems the plugs were fouled with fuel (I had been trying to get it going, starting fluid and such again so not surprising), ran out of time but I might drain bowls again, crank the engine with outlet from fuel pump disconnected to pump out some fuel and try again.

What was the problem in the first place that made you pull and clean the carbs? Was the bike running at all? Had it been sitting for a long time? My recommendation would definitely be to pull the carbs again and go through them. I would be willing to bet that when you do you will see something you missed, installed backwards, or otherwise didn’t do exactly right.
As a side note, I saw another posting about the accelerator pump(s). I wasn’t aware that the 1100 HAD accelerator pumps. I know the 1000’s don’t. I didn’t think the 1100’s did either, but I’ve never done a set of 1100 carbs. So I’m not doubting you, just wanting information for my memory bank. (Which I will forget 20 minutes later)
Chris

Bike was brought to me for a tune up and brake job. It was driven 1 mile to my place, running terribly. I determined it was running on just two cylinders and had no fuel in them, I tried some cleaner in the fuel, then it started dumping fuel through #4 into exhaust. I told the guy everything it needed and the cost of me working dirt cheap would far exceed the value of the bike and I didn’t want to do it, I eventually caved and started in on it anyway. Gotta save ‘em. Yes it has accelerator pump circuit and all was renewed and/or cleaned, (not that I did it all correctly).

Plugs fouled with fuel is a good place to start for me. I would be under the opinion that the tips of the float needles are still dirty as well as the seats. I know it means pulling the carbs again, but there are a few tests you can do off the engine to be sure the carbs are working.

I clean the float needles by running the rubber tip ever so lightly over fine emery cloth. I also take the end of a piece of emery cloth, roll it into a cone and clean the seats.

To check whether they are sealing, I fill a lawn mower gas tank with gas and hang it 2 feet above the carbs connecting it via the fuel inlet. (FYI, I always use a valve in the gas line tubing from that tank so that I can shutoff the gas as needed.)

Once the tank is 2 feet above the carbs, I open the valve and fill the bowls. While filling, I check for leaks inside and outside.

If no leaks, next I check to see if the float needles will still stay seated by simulating riding. I turn the carbs left and right and lift them 45 degrees in both directions while shaking them. If gas leaks anywhere, the needle and seat in that carb is still dirty and will require further cleaning. Don't be afraid to give them a good shake while testing. They get tossed around a lot on the road and bounced when hitting potholes.

Once satisfied they are not leaking and the needles are sealing well, check the accelerator pump circuit. Looking down into the chambers, run the throttle out all the way and be sure each is getting gas squirted into them.

Lastly, double check the bench sync. Mike Nixon and Roady both use this method and I have found it works every time:

Look into and around the outlet port of #3 carb and locate the bypass outlet. It will be right along the line of the resting butterfly. Note the relationship of the outlet to the edge of the butterfly. Now, adjust the 1/3 sync screw so that #1's butterfly position matches #3. Flip 'round to the other side and adjust #2 and #4 so they match each other. Then adjust the left bank's sync screw so the 2&4 set match up to #3. The 2/4 sync screw is between those two carbs. The left side's screw is aft of #4 carb.