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Let us know how that goes for you.

Real happy with this method of removing the float valve seats. Just turned down ~1/4" off the end of a drift punch to JUST fit into the seat, then wobbled it patiently. A little brake cleaner helps, I think (although two came out without it). Sorry for the graininess of the video. The el-cheapo...

A bit more this morning (PT for the shoulder this afternoon). Plenum separated (a struggle - will need new screws) and all jets, tubes, etc. removed from #1 carb. Was surprised at how nice the float bowl looked for it. Not clean by any means, but no evidence of water like I've seen in every...

Carbs off, coolant and oil drained (coolant green, oil black), radiator pulled, handlebars pulled and wiring removed from them. Moving about as fast as I can (and want to) with the busted shoulder and very little space. Next will be to move it a little more out of the way so the carbs can be...

Yes, or just a continuity check with a VOM. Should be closed in neutral and open in any gear. Shift through several times to make sure it is not intermittent. But, that checks the switch, and you need to check the diodes also. Page 17-9 of the FSM tells how to check the switch, 17-12 shows the...

Oil drained? That is the easy part. You just about have to pull the engine. At a minimum you have to unbolt the front lower and spring the frame away from the case. I used a plastic chain saw wedge to help. But first, make sure the diodes are good.

Whew! Three days of patient wrenching, soaking, prying, soaking, wrenching, soaking finally got the front lower engine mount bolt free of its rust prison. After pulling the engine guards, removed the rack and started draining the coolant.

No.

Sometimes, she just wanted more attention.

On that bottom bolt, I've seen some use all-thread rod for it, but remember that it is metric, so doubtful you'll find it at a US hardware store. Matbe try McMaster-Carr, ebay, Amazon. Hard to get single-carb tuning instructions? It's because few have them, and they used a variety of carbs...

I don't believe any 1000s had factory engine guards. But, at least this one isn't U-bolted to the down tube in front like so many were.

In memory of a fine gentleman that some of you knew - "Pistol" Pete Boody. I purchased it from Ken and Moose last summer, and stored it away in my shed. Finally got enough room (and recovered form a wreck on my RD400c) to move it to the garage. It is fairly complete, although I'm certain some...

Did the PT for my separated left AC joint. Getting near 100% range of motion, now need to work on strengthening the muscles around it. That was from a trip over the hood of a Nissan that pulled in front of my RD400c (luckily at only ~25 mph). Checked out how I can get the '75 GL1000 out of the...

Looks like a good rig for someone desiring to eat up some interstate miles.

All fuel passages are suspect, as well as air passages that help carry fuel in. Squirting brake cleaner through ALL passages is a common last test before reassembly. In addition, check that the fuel level is the same as other carbs and that the throttle butterfly and vacuum piston are...

Should be great, but I didn't know that they made them after ending GL1500 production.

I would carefully monitor the 12V. That fan is a pretty good load (as are the horns).

Yes, as I remember. Spring loading may be needed to remove any backlash.

Nice, clean signals. What are you using for throttle position? Seems that was a weakness on 80's GMs.

I'd be interested in seeing the Hall probe scope traces. Years ago (the '90s), a researcher in our lab was having timimg issues with a pixel selector for histogramed data. The sweep speed on his CRT was causing timing issues. I pointed out that he was using 741 op-amps, which don't have a real...