75 GL1000 "Pete"

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pidjones

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In memory of a fine gentleman that some of you knew - "Pistol" Pete Boody. I purchased it from Ken and Moose last summer, and stored it away in my shed. Finally got enough room (and recovered form a wreck on my RD400c) to move it to the garage. It is fairly complete, although I'm certain some things will be discovered as I go through it. Plan is to fully strip it down to engine-out for cleaning and paining if needed. Side covers are already pulled and stored away safely. Seat will need a re-cover kit. Muffler looks shaky but I don't have it off yet. Hopeful for it to be salvageable. Original color was Candy Antares Red Special and I intend to repaint the same. A complete headlight bucket was purchased at Barber swap meet.
It does turn over with the kick starter, but I know nothing else about the engine. I might change the belts, clean the carbs, and try to start it before stripping much further.
Pete1.jpg
 
Carbs off, coolant and oil drained (coolant green, oil black), radiator pulled, handlebars pulled and wiring removed from them. Moving about as fast as I can (and want to) with the busted shoulder and very little space. Next will be to move it a little more out of the way so the carbs can be disassembled and go in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Pete 2nd.jpg
 
A bit more this morning (PT for the shoulder this afternoon). Plenum separated (a struggle - will need new screws) and all jets, tubes, etc. removed from #1 carb. Was surprised at how nice the float bowl looked for it. Not clean by any means, but no evidence of water like I've seen in every other set I've been through. Was even able to remove the float valve seat and filter with no damage by turning down a drift punch to just fit in it, then wriggling it out patiently. I actually enjoy working on carbs like this.
 

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Real happy with this method of removing the float valve seats. Just turned down ~1/4" off the end of a drift punch to JUST fit into the seat, then wobbled it patiently. A little brake cleaner helps, I think (although two came out without it). Sorry for the graininess of the video. The el-cheapo GoPro clone I was using was way too wide-angle, so had to use digital zoom. I think you'll get the idea, anyway.
 
Not a lot today. Carbs are pretty much all clean. Waiting for o-rings to assemble. Moved the Triumph out of the garage and into the shed today - that gives me a lot more room to work on the GL.
 
Can accomplish so much more with the Triumph out of the way. Rear wheel, brake, fender, etc. out and then tank out. Headers and muffler (shot full of holes). Next, remove the front brakes and footpegs. Rear drive came off easy after the snap ring (not too big a struggle, but went through all of my 90 degree snap ring pliers before I found one that worked). Snaked the harness out. It will be a nice winter project to clean and fix up. A couple hours more of fiddling around, and the engine will be setting by itself on the dolly.
Tank out b.jpg
swing arm off b.jpg
 
Kind of stalled for a bit. Thanksgiving week was busy, then our family came down with Covid, so now we are isolating, and this is the first day that I've felt like getting out of bed. The usual respiratory symptoms were tough but manageable. The headaches really knocked me out, though. Finally getting relief!
 
Looks great! It's always nice to see carbs that don't put up a massive fight.
Thanks! This was my fourth set to rebuild, so I have seen many of the things that cause frustrations. A good set of JIS screwdrivers, US cleaner, and patience helps. I could never do this for profit - way too slow. It was gratifying with this old set to have them leak test perfect the first time, One thing that helps is an old plenum that I hacked up to be able to connect it one carb at a time for leak checking.
 
Finally feeling good enough to tackle this thing again. Will probably pay for it tomorrow, but the shoulder just isn't improving, so... Finalized the fuel tank vinegar cleaning, neutralized with baking soda, washed and rinsed, dried thoroughly and added over a half can of fogging oil.

Then, SHAZBOTT!! Well, not my first rodeo (although I haven't dealt with a broken belt before). Good is that the engine turns over easy (don't know about valve interference) and the coolant/oil both looked fine.

So, unplanned removal of Left head is due to see how much valve damage. And, building a couple idlers. Of course, I had a couple new belts ready for it but didn't expect to pull a head, so will have to order head gaskets. Bother.
shazbott1.jpg
shazbott2.jpg
 
You might as well do both sides if you're taking one head gasket off I definitely do the other side too I love these old GL's but everyone I've ever worked on if they got the original gaskets on its soon they start leaking a good time to replace valve seals and lap the valves too
 
Pulled the left head today. There was just a bit of "mud" in the #4 cylinder, which wiped right out leaving nice looking walls. Turned the head valve side up and filled the areas with isopropyl alcohol - surprisingly, there was no leakage! So, cleaning and reassembly (once gaskets come in next week) will be all that is required. Might replace seals on this side, but will NOT be lapping the seats. There is a very thin coating of Stellite on GL1000 seats, and lapping might take it off causing rapid wear.
 
If you will read the Honda Manuel it actually recommends lapping the valves believe it or not a light lapping will not hurt the stelight on the valves but cutting the valves will though their is a big difference. I've been lapping valves for years with stelight on them and it won't remove it that stuff is is nearly over a 2 thousands thick it's good stuff
 
Spent over five hours today getting the head gasket cement off of the head and block. They even used whatever they used on the head gasket on the water elbow gasket. Stuff reminded me of a sealer that we were forbidden to use on steam flanges in the Navy called Copaltite. Along with being and atmosphere contaminant until cured, about the only way to remove it from a steam flange was to cut the flanges off and weld on new ones. So anyway, the head is ready for gasket and re-installation. I'll use the copper spray coating on the head gasket. Gaskets and dowels (one was buggered getting it out) are due mid-week.

https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=757420&hilit=stellite#p757420
 

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