Search results

Hondabond and 3bond about the same. Shellac (Indian Head) has the advantage that it is soluble in acetone. Just be light with any you decide on.

Harnesses can usually be repaired. If more than a single strand is cut by the Scotchlok connector, consider a soldered splice. Heal all of the insulation wounds with liquid electrical tape.

None of the GL1000s came with factory fairing. Most of the aftermarket fairings used were Vetters. Sadly, they came with Scotchlok connectors that damaged the wiring. There are tons of these old fairings floating around. The key is finding a complete one with a good windscreen. Don't pay much -...

Nothin wrong with non-alcohol - it is 100% preferred - BUT high test is NOT. Causes carbon build-up. These engines are designed for regular 100% gasoline.

Will be interesting to see how much signal can be obtained from the drive teeth on the crank. Hall sensors don't generate a magnetic flux, but measure the flux (or change in flux) going through them. I suspect you will not get a big enough signal to be useful. Shouldn't be too hard to add anothe...

One half can of SeaFoam may be a problem. I'd flush it all out, and if using any fuel additive, do so only by manufacturer's directions. I've helped a couple friends with this problem. Additives are great if not abused. Might change plugs, too. Over-use of additives can mess them up.

Useful for rounding off sharp high frequency spikes. Might protect components to some extent. I've used torroids and MOVs on my accelerator, but we were dealing with 5 MEGAvolt discharges. (25 MV on the big machine)

Some do, some don't. I have the spray, but haven't used it. There should be no corrosion issue.

POR15 is what I used with good success on an RD400c tank. I would not use it on the sender unit, however. Not really needed, and too much risk of fowling the pivot or electrical parts.

Clean, flat head and block surfaces plus proper torque (many use moly on bolts and washers) are the key to leak-tite head gaskets, in my experience.

Made from pure, unrefined unobtainium. Why so hard to find? They cover the battery, and when folks take them off to access the battery they don't use care to make sure that they properly latch back. Just keep looking, and be prepared to either pay much more than you think it is worth, or buy one...

Starter, relay, cables, cable ends. I have had several cases where the cable end had poor connection to the wire itself due to corrosion. The starter is probably OK, or it wouldn't have started when it did. All of these are pretty easy fixes.

Sure, you can wire brush the valves. The dowel part numbers are on the parts lists/drawings available on many Honda parts suppliers web sites. Don't forget the oil flow restrictor and o-rings.

You don't lap these valves. They are Stelite faced. If they seal well, about all you need to do is maybe install new stem seals.

Brakes are usually in need of attention. As are control cables and electrics. Have fun!

I think it would be pin 5 with a PWM signal. I believe duraton of the pulse is what determines the amount injected per pulse. Pin 11 for the tach would be the rate.

Just got back from the shed. The extra set that I had must have been given to someone else. Never fear, though. here is a set on the '75 that will be my next project. I don't like engine guards on 1000s, so I take them off. It will be a month or so before I can dig down to these, though. They...

Let me dig them out and get a picture of them.

I believe fuel consumption (instantanious) is derived from injector pulse width and rate.

I think there are some in the shed, but they would need sanded and painted as the chrome is poor.