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I was going over my work notes and i was incorrect. Putting lubricant or any fluid on a bolt reduces torque value. The liquid acts as a multiplier applying hydrolic pressure to the threads, so the proper torque from 62 would be closer to 60 to prevent undue stress to the threads.

It is a couple of orifices like the MC has that can build up crap when sitting for long periods. I cleaned it with SS wire.

Here is something I found that has not been discussed. 30+ yo bikes with low miliage that are restored and rebuilt and MC is rebuilt and calipers reworked but did anyone mention the splitter? They get just as bad as MC and cleaning them out made a BIG difference in Bella.

Multiple Bike Syndrome

joe, if you ever come to south Arkansas you can have the rear baggage off Acadia, Its honda and same color. I am swaping the furniture from Bella to Acadia for the color and wont be putting it on another. includes an bend rack to hold it.

Welcome from southern Arkansas

Welcome from Arkansas.

to me the linked brakes is one of the reasons I have 3 '83's. The link is equal to modern Anilock brakes that EVERY new car has. If you want more stopping power get a bigger MC. Hydrolic pressure IS the stopping force. I am thinking of linking my silverwing when I finish it.

Not trying to hijack my own thread but here is something that may help prevent similar problems or worse. That 62 ft/lbs is what is recommended but that is a dry recommendation. When you add ANY type of agent to the threads you alter that value. A good rule of thumb is to add 5 lbs per hundred...

Looked at spare motor and rotation of the flywheel is counterclockwise from the rear. Starting the bike will possibly cause bind to loosen bolt but once running the load of the alt will try to tighten it. BTW, it looks like the flywheel turns one to one with the crank.

If we can attach the collar to the flywheel then that would take pressure off the bolt since flywheel is splined to shaft not bolt.

I checked out the alt I have in the battery box and it may work with few mods to bike. Gonna build a box to replace tail light and mount tail light to back of it and attach box to luggage rack. Gonna move battery and solenoid to this box and battery box will be DCed. Looks like the shaft from...

your right, plus we would not wanna give more production to californa.:)

CV boot? Maybe even better. Need to see if I have room under side cover to fit an alternator and small pulley set up. If this works then Dan can make kits for others to do it.

only needs to be a small oil seal like the one for a 4-wheeler axle. May be able to find one to fit inspection port. If not I may have to drill casing but that may introduce an off balanced wobble in the seal. When I get time I am gonna look at the line=up for the cross member.

Not so because the front alternator uses a pulley on the crank, there is no left or right side imbalance. Even the kit that has an alternator bolted to a custom belt cover uses a separate crank pulley. The timing belts pull the crank in opposite directions. Adding another pulley pulls in only...

OE stator is non-vented and attached to the motor directly. A new one here would have vents and be seperated from direct motor contact so heat should be improved. Another problem I have with front mount is balance of crank. Timing belt counter each other on the crank but adding another load to...

I feel strange messing with radiator and timing belts and in the end the alt is hanging out the side up front. I am overly cautious and do not want road debris and water splashing up on it. Also I would like it to look like I do not have one.:) I also love a challenge.

If not fast enough then a gear box or pully set up will get it right. I was thinking of using a small splined coupling with a plate on one end drilled for stator bolt and a splined shafted U joint like the drive-shaft. That would cover all 3 axis of possible movement. If the other end of the...

did not know about the oil. Good to know. Speed is enough for the stator so maybe only need 1 to 1 on an alternator. Next hurtle would be the frame cross member behind it but I think a small shaft would clear it.