1100 Carbs Not Idleing

[McLeod]

Hey all, I've got a 1976 GL1000 with GL1100 carbs (not sure the year). I've torn the carbs down, cleaned everything, replaced seals, etc. However, upon start-up it won't idle under 2000rpms.

I have yet to sync the carbs together, and know little about all the adjustments that can be made to them.

Can someone provide me with a list of adjustable parts on the GL1100 carbs once they're on the bike? I'm just not sure what all CAN be adjusted. If I knew that, then I could run through each adjustment and find out from trial and error what the issue is.

Thanks!

McLeod

 

[mcgovern61]

McLeod, welcome to the the site from New Jersey! :clapping:

The 1100 carbs have 3 primary adjustments to look at; float level settings (15mm), pilot screw and synching them up. If they are not synched, they will not idle at low rpm. Are you familiar with how to sync carbs?

 

[McLeod]

I mean, I get the concept. I need a vacuum gauge and this funky screwdriver tool ($30), to tune them to each other in perfect sync. I've never done it, and I'm not even really sure when the vacuum gauge hose would attach to for that either.

But otherwise, I understand it conceptually.

 

[dan filipi]

Welcome to the forums McLeod.

Usually when it won't idle (unless the sync is way off) it's clogged idle jets.
If the primary jets are not removable then you have pre 1982 carbs.
Those are a bugger to get clean and will cause the problem your having.

I have my doubts out of sync is causing your problem unless the sync screws have been played with from where they were set and not put back, unless of course it's never run right or a prior owner messed around with them.

It sounds to me like you'll need to pull the rack to go back in.

They can be sync'ed very close with a tiny drill bit in between the throttle plate and carb casting, carbs have to come off to do that. Once it's up and running and will idle then a vacuum sync should be done to fine tune.

 

[joedrum]

try this ...put some seafoam in the gas ......get a fan and put it in front of the radiator and turn it on .....star the bike and use the idle adjustment to get it to run at 2000 rpm or what ever it will run at .....let it run and keep trying to turn down the idle screw every once in awhile ......dont let it get hot it probably wont with fan but check this will take awhile .....but it will proably start to clear itself and the lower you get it to run the more its useing the idle curcuts .....the seafoam is a cleaner and doing it this way works on the idle jets better than riding it....just a couple weeks ago i did this to a bike that had been sitting for three years and after about 2-3 hrs it was idleing at 900 rpm and the bike runs great now and it started at 3000 rpm .....it dont always work but it beats taking the carbs off .....i just baby sited it while i BS with everybody who thought i was crazy....now they think im some kind guru wing guy .....what was it the guy said i had street smarts .....the 1100 carbs are a great set of carbs try it ...its whorth the gas and seafoam exspense..... :mrgreen:

 

[detdrbuzzard]

it would run better with some early 1000 carbs, 1100's have smaller carbs the jets may be too small

 

[RBG]

They have it right..idle jets are probably clogged..so here's the steps..first try sea foam..I'd drain or run the gas out of the carbs..then pull the in line off #3 carb and fill bowls with sea foam..use big syringe each carb holds about 2 .oz..let it sit over night..then run her ..it will smoke a lot and maybe a little hard to start..then put some sea foam in the tank and run that through the bike..1/2 tank is Ok..if idle is still an issue you need to pull the carbs and remove the idle jets to clean. If you look down the idle jet tube and see a screw driver slot then screw out if not it's a hassle to remove..the only way is to use an ease out or small sheet metal screw ..but you have to be careful not to screw in too far or too hard or you'll ruin the jet. Some have tried a little heat on the tube and then try to pull. This procedure is not recommended for that reason but it maybe your only choice..the jet has side port so sticking a wire down there doesn't help much. you can try compressed air in to the tube and it may blow it clean after soaking in carb cleaner??

The synch tube attachment points are on each intake runner at the bottom..you have to have adapters to screw in the holes after removing the bolt that seals them for riding. Yo can make a syncher for about $2 but you have to buy the adapters..$10 is the cheapest I ahve seen for all four..you can tow it two at a time or all four depending on your synch setup.

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_s ... uretors%3F

https://209.85.129.132/search?q=cache:1C ... lr=lang_en

https://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

adapters https://www.casporttouring.com/store/mer ... code=24003