1100 exhaust modification

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Lot's of reading to be had on the subject with a Google search "exhaust tuning".
I thought this one was interesting which touched on 2 into 1 and 4 into 1 collectors.


In order to explain the effect of exhaust tuning on performance, let’s take a quick look at the 4-stroke engine cycle. The first step in the 4-stroke process is the intake stroke. With the intake valve open, the piston travels down the cylinder pulling a fresh air and fuel mixture into the cylinder (intake stroke). When the piston nears bottom dead center, the intake valve closes and the cylinder travels up the cylinder compressing the air/fuel charge (compression stroke). With the piston at the top of the stroke, the spark plug fires and ignites the compressed mixture causing essentially a closed explosion. The pressure of the ignited fuel pushes the piston down the cylinder transferring power to the piston, rod and finally the crankshaft (power stroke). After bottom dead center, the exhaust valve opens and the piston is pushed up the cylinder forcing the exhaust gases out the exhaust port and manifold (exhaust stroke).

As the exhaust valve opens, the relatively high cylinder pressure (70 – 90 psi), initiates exhaust blowdown and a large pressure wave travels down the exhaust pipe. As the valve continues to open, the exhaust gases begin flowing through the valve seat. The exhaust gases flow at an average speed of over 350 ft/sec, while the pressure wave travels at the speed of sound of around 1,700 ft/sec.
As one can see, there are two main phenomenon occurring in the exhaust, gas particle flow and pressure wave propagation. The objective of the exhaust is to remove as many gas particles as possible during the exhaust stroke. The proper handling of the pressure waves in the exhaust can help us to this end, and even help us “supercharge” the engine.

As the exhaust pressure wave arrives at the end of the exhaust pipe, part of the wave is reflected back towards the cylinder as a negative pressure (or vacuum) wave. This negative wave, if timed properly to arrive at the cylinder during the overlap period can help scavenge the residual exhaust gases in the cylinder and also can initiate the flow of intake charge into the cylinder. Since the pressure waves travel at near the speed of sound, the timing of the negative wave can be controlled by the primary pipe length for a particular rpm.

The strength of the wave reflection is based on the area change compared to the area of the originating pipe. A large area change such as the end of a pipe will produce a strong reflection, whereas a smaller area change, as occurs in a collector, will produce a less-strong wave. A 2-1 collector will have a smaller area change than a 4-1 collector producing a weaker pressure wave. Also, a merge collector will have a smaller area change than a standard formed collector producing a weaker wave.


So, the trick to proper exhaust tuning is to tune an exhaust system is produce a negative wave of the proper strength timed to occur at cylinder overlap. Various exhaust designs have evolved over the years from theory, but the majority are still being built from ‘cut & try’ experimenting. Only lately have computer programs like the Burns X-design or high end engine simulation programs been able to help in this process. Practical tools like adjustable length primary pipes and our B-TEC and DynoSYS adjustable collectors allow quicker design changes on the dyno or in the car. When considering a header design, the following points need to be considered:
1) Header primary pipe diameter (also whether constant size or stepped pipes).
2) Primary pipe overall length.
3) Collector package including the number of pipes per collector and the outlet sizing.
4) Megaphone/tailpipe package.
 
dan filipi":3neexvho said:
Speaking from experience so far running the cbr coils, any way you can make the spark hotter/fatter will improve running.
I really think this is a worthwhile mod no matter how it's done, cbr or neon coils and others.

Mine will start right up no choke.
It needs choke to keep running but before the cbr coils it would not start unless I gave it FULL choke, back off the choke it would die.

Mine is the same way, with an MSD Neon coil, relay mod, and new wires and caps. Stone cold this a.m., I pulled the choke out and cranked.
I shouldn't have pulled the choke (!) because it didn't start! No choke, and it now starts at the touch of the button.
Brilliant.
 
For "tuning" of bike exhaust I'm all for trying to make all pipes equal in length. If different sizes of pipe are used then those sections too must be equal in length. Then with or without heat wrap or baffles. Add back pressure as needed to eliminate backfiring during deceleration. I personally don't mind a little popping. Adding back pressure can be done by reducing outlet opening. Increasing the length of the pipe. Decreasing the size of the pipe. Increasing baffles or adding insulation to baffles. Or by welding a washer on edge to a small bolt. The bolt is then put in the tailpipe a few inches from the exit. Changing the angle of the washer will change the back pressure. If it still pops on decel with washer flat to flow increase the size of washers used.
 
In answer to your first question.
Cutting the mufflers back to the 4" section will result in almost nothing.
I've done that and all you are removing is the small resonators in the tail sections.
You can then, however, get an air chisel, and a longish sharpened bar and hammer out the actual baffles,
but only up to the other tapered section, those can't be removed unless you cut the 4" section away.
I then welded a chrome 4" "stack" on the muffler and ran it to the back tire.
It is loud, but not that loud.
It didn't make any difference to the way the bike ran.
 
I used to drive BMW's in the late 70's. Reg Predmore was doing good with the 900 BMW's. He had a secret mod that he would do to your stock mufflers. He had a 3/4" extension drill that would slip down the exit side of the muffler and drill a 3/4" hole in the last baffle plate of both mufflers. I made my own extension drill and the 900 BMW I had had a bit of a snarl when accelerating , felt a little punchier yet was not annoying droning down the highway. I did the same thing to my 1100 with the same result. A little more push and still pretty quiet. If the stock exhaust was a 10 on the quiet meeter the drilled one is a 8.5. I was never sorry that I drilled
the 1100.
 

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