371 cams into GL1100

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KYWinger

KYWinger

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Looking for a bit more power, I bought a pair of 371 cams from a '76 GL1100. I did NOT, however, get the followers that went with them :doh: ....
If my research is correct, I'm told NOT to install the cams in my heads without the matching followers OR new followers. :rtfm:
:beg: :beg: Is that correct?
Sooooooooooo.....what's next for me? Any low cost ideas from y'all? I won't do anything that will jeopardize the reliability of the motor - 'specially if I ride to the meet-n-greet in Vegas! :moped:
 
I saw recent suggestions from guys at NGW. I don't remember what it was, but that's what the search button is for. I think they carefully looked at how they lined up, where the wear marks were on the followers. Sometimes they worked, if not you tried a different pair.
 
If the cam lobes are smooth no bumps go ahead and install them they'll be fine. If you find any bumps on the lobes use a fine grit whet stone to smooth it and install.
 
this is another myth of stupidity in my book ... be leave me if you keep everything together as most say you should ... you will get nothing in upgrade... what ever it was it will still be ... just foolish to think this will get anything positive .... truth is the same people think this ...think rocker shaft switch is a benefit ... but not in the cam area ....

I myself have never kept the parts together ever ...I always look the cam over really good ...machine by hand ... rockers also ....shaft switch too ... and have never came up with anything but a quieter smoother running motor ... be careful what you listen too ... you are the best tool you have
 
Cam swaps are done all the time without swapping everything in car engines with no problems... not sure why everyone thinks it needs to be changed as a whole in a bike.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=105218#p105218:2ugh9x4b said:
brianinpa » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:41 am[/url]":2ugh9x4b]
Cam swaps are done all the time without swapping everything in car engines with no problems... not sure why everyone thinks it needs to be changed as a whole in a bike.
Click to expand...
Just has to do with breakin as I see it.
The lobes and followers will breakin with run time.
 
I dunno about stupidity and foolishness, but the way it was reasoned was that the head and cam holders were machined together on one machine. If the bolts that hold the followers are off a small amount from one machine to another at the factory, as they likely could be, then the followers for one set might not match the other set from a different machine. Bolt it up and run it and you'll "break" it in, but you may be left with one side with a gap which will result in a short run before disaster. Hand machine it all you want, but if you have a gap on one side, you can't sand aluminum back in there. I haven't had to do this yet, but this is what some recommend. It's your engine.
 
Well I don't think it has anything to do with stupidity, just need to look at the assembly as a whole to make sure everything lines up properly.
It has on mine having swapped many cams into the cam holder that came with the head, same with the rockers.
Right now I'm running 1000 cams in 1100 heads with it's rockers and holders the head came with.
There's no unusual wear or noises, matter of fact it's quieter than its ever been.
 
I'm not saying it can't be done, just to check it first, which is what you're saying. There are a lot of guys on Ebay breaking them up and selling them as smaller units hoping to get more money. I wish they'd leave them together. I have just moved and have a heated, but tiny garage. I may dabble with a high mileage 1100 and try this with a set of cams from a 76. As long as it lines up, I won't have to replace the head gasket and that drives the cost up.
 
I think the key to it is in the details during the assembly. Make sure everything lines up correctly and it will be fine. Is it what Honda would do or recommend? Not really, but what would most manufactures approve of in this day and age with all the court cases.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=105225#p105225:1383luvr said:
ekvh » Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:44 am[/url]":1383luvr]
I won't have to replace the head gasket and that drives the cost up.
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Precisely the reason for me swapping cams only.....
 
My question has to do with tappet adjustments.
1100 calls for .004 intake, .005 exhaust.
When I pulled the 1200 cams and put the 1000 cams in, I couldn't find my .005 so I set them all to .004.
I figured that'd be ok since 1000 calls for .004 both intake and exhaust.
What are your guys thoughts on this?
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=105265#p105265:1y970bzx said:
brianinpa » Mon Dec 16, 2013 4:51 pm[/url]":1y970bzx]
Valves that are too tight can be even worse than those that are too loose, but you are only talking about 0.001" so I don't think that would be too tight.
Click to expand...
Agreed, but why the difference between models?
Did Honda realize exhaust should have been .005 all along or was something else changed?
By just looking at them the cams and heads all look the same.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=105273#p105273:2z3b6vrv said:
brianinpa » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:19 pm[/url]":2z3b6vrv]
Is the valve length the same?
Click to expand...
I'd have to check again but I thought they were the same valve.
 
Personally I think the valves should be set as specified for the cam used. 75 cam set valves to 75 specs to get the intended lift and duration for that cam. I also prefer to set valves a bit loose so they last a bit longer before needing adjusted and tight tends to allow valves to burn.
 

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