? Adding an alternator ?

[RckRagman]

While checking through these forums, under the GL110 technical area, I came across a post marked "HELP ! (Low charge rate)"

Within that thread was a comment from 'slabghost':
"You are in the right place here. You know the wrenches just go for it. We are here to help you over any snags whether you replace the stator or add alternator."

I am REALLY NOT that mechanically inclined (I can handle most basics and some lighting additions), but IS it possible to add an alternator to a GL1100? Does this benefit in the way I think it would? (By boosting charging and helping with extra lighting, accessories, etc.)

Curious minds want to know!

My main reason for asking is the extra lights I've added to mine. Everything seems to be working just fine (now), but I don't want to find out that I'm actually hurting my system...Plus, I did have a confusing issue for a few months over the summer...

The confusing issue: When I would first turn on my motorcycle after being off for a few hours or overnight, my horn would not work AT ALL. Not even a click. But, once I rode (between 8 and 12 minutes), the horn would work just fine. This is my first motorcycle and I had not a clue as to what a "stator" was... The first time I saw it, I thought someone had a typo and meant "STARTER". As it stands right now, the horn does work when the bike is first turned on, so I'm thinking that the issue somehow resolved itself. But I can't help but wonder if it was initially caused by something I did.....

Any thoughts? ? ?

Oh, 1983 GL1100 Interstate, by the way........62,900 on the odometer

 

[cyborg]

sounds like maybe the battery is a little low after starting, and takes a minute to charge up enough to work the horn. these bikes do not charge at idle. try reving it up to about 2,000 RPM and try the horn.
with the addition of extra lights an external altenator is a good idea. i have installed them on 1000,1100, and 1200 's and its not that hard. i use a smaller version then the car ones you might have seen. they actually fit inside of the fairing, and can't be seen unless your really looking for them. a one wire system that also eliminates the regulator. very neat, but not cheap. parts alone run almost $300

 

[dan filipi]

I'd say it does take a bit of ingenuity to install an external auto type alternator, rather time consuming to get it lined up right.
I've done it by making all my own brackets and having a special crankshaft pulley made.
I could have used the "Poorboy" kit but the crank pulley is (or was) too small to provide enough output at low speed for my liking.

There are a number of things you can do to help the output of your current charging system and help avoid trouble down the road.
The main thing is by soldering what's known as the "3 yellow wires" by the battery.
The stock plug overheats and can damage the stator inside the engine.
Very important to do this because a stator replacement involves removing the engine.

These same 3 yellow wires go to the regulator under the false tank.
They are known to overheat there also but that's less common than by the battery.

The charging system is designed to operate at 100% it's full output ALL the time.
This is true no matter how many lights you have or if all the lights are off so reducing the number of lights and even installing lower current LED bulbs will not benefit the stator with it's stock design.

Another option is to replace the regulator with a mosfet type.
I haven't done the mod myself but it's reported to control the stator output so it's only producing the actual power output the system needs rather than 100% all of the time which is what I believe cooks the stator windings.
Cost is generally about $150 and you wire it up yourself, pretty simple.