Mocked up? Doesn't look like the bike suspension is preloaded yet. :smilie_happy:
"Barn Find 1977 GL1000 loaded
- Thread starter C5Performance
- Start date
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- Duncanville, Texas
- My Bike Models
- 1981 GL1100 Innerstate("The Turd")SOLD!!, 1996 GL1500 Innerstate
C5Performance":2mnjjj0j said:
We WILL be expecting video of that, ya know? :rtfm: :smilie_happy:
Looks like ya got a wee bit more wrenchin to do, Paul, but....it looks like a great project! :good:
OP
OP
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=108500#p108500:20pnhc7m said:
I've got plenty of fab work to go, and I'm buying you a plane ticket here for the final assembly.
That will teach you to help me
This is the first time the frame was in the same room as the cycle. I was deciding how much ground clearance I can get away with.
I dont want the frame snagging tree stumps.
Put your spindle and wheel on the swingarm. With the center of the wheel at or just below the frame you should have all the height you need. With the swingarm pivot on top of the frame and the axle just below it should absorb bumps quite well. I'm guessing you are using a motorcycle wheel? I'm going to use a rear wheel like on the bike so they can be swapped out on long trips as the drive wheel tire wears much faster.
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OP
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=108506#p108506:20n43sov said:
I was planning a cycle wheel, but have been told by a few sidecar guys the swingarm (and the wheel bearings of the cycle hub) cant take the side load.
The swingarms I've seen that use a rear dirt bike swingarm are just not visually appealing to me, and too wide.
Garden tractor or small trailer rims dont look the part, but I need something that wont blow apart in the middle of nowhere.
Your suggestions are GREATLY encouraged.
thanks for the tips on swingarm height. I have more pictures posted here:
https://www.facebook.com/C5Performance?ref=hl
neat stuff in the facebook
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OP
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=108847#p108847:22afiplk said:
thanks Joe. We post 99% of what we do at C5 on Facebook.
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=108845#p108845:6pgdqqju said:
There is nothing wrong with using a motorcycle wheel. It is just a matter of using the right size and style. I will be using a stock rear wheel on my 83 rig so I can swap positions and also carry one spare that works in both places. We build "Enduro" style rigs that get beat to death on BMW GS bikes and use a motorcycle wheel with no issues. Ever notice what is on a Ural?
OP
OP
I've decided to part out the '77 and just tear down my '78 instead. I don't want to invest in rebuilding the rusty engine and don't need two Wings.
My '78 runs fine and I just bought a Ural (to create an improved ignition kit) so if anyone needs engine parts let me know.
I'd still like to install the kickstart onto the '78 engine so I can see if the C5 ignition helps. I've heard many stories about how the early Wings dont kick start easily.
My '78 runs fine and I just bought a Ural (to create an improved ignition kit) so if anyone needs engine parts let me know.
I'd still like to install the kickstart onto the '78 engine so I can see if the C5 ignition helps. I've heard many stories about how the early Wings dont kick start easily.
The trick to kick starting the early GL's is to bypass the resistor to the coils allowing full voltage while using the kick start. This can be done by wiring in a switched bypass or although a little awkward pushing the start button while kicking. Also, one of the reasons many have starter motor issues is from trying to start the bike with a low battery. When the voltage is low the amperage goes up while tying to start the bike and creates heat in the starter that then melts solder creating a failure.
I think the C5 system should probably solve the problem also. Unfortunately the kick start system does not turn the engine over as much as a regular motorcycle kick start usually does so having the timing spot on and a good spark (multi) should really help.
I think the C5 system should probably solve the problem also. Unfortunately the kick start system does not turn the engine over as much as a regular motorcycle kick start usually does so having the timing spot on and a good spark (multi) should really help.
OP
OP
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=112016#p112016:picqhubo said:sparrowhawkdesign » Sat Mar 08, 2014 11:29 am[/url]"
The trick to kick starting the early GL's is to bypass the resistor to the coils allowing full voltage while using the kick start. This can be done by wiring in a switched bypass or although a little awkward pushing the start button while kicking. Also, one of the reasons many have starter motor issues is from trying to start the bike with a low battery. When the voltage is low the amperage goes up while tying to start the bike and creates heat in the starter that then melts solder creating a failure.
I think the C5 system should probably solve the problem also. Unfortunately the kick start system does not turn the engine over as much as a regular motorcycle kick start usually does so having the timing spot on and a good spark (multi) should really help.
That makes sense. I have no way to test the stock ignition since I've tossed the old junk already, but if we can start it reliably with one or two kicks using the C5 it could be a benefit. We have tested the ignition down to about 5-6 volts so a weak battery shouldn't cause an issue. The coils are the issue, since the ignition module needs almost no power to operate.
Using a 4,000 microfarad capacitor to run the coil (headlights off) we generate spark at the end of the second kick (using an old Triumph). I'll have to measure the kicker stroke versus engine rotation. British bikes are about 2:1 (2 rotations for 1 kick). Not sure of the Wing engines. My Ural has a sideways kicker also...I'll test that as well.
id like to have one of those cool paul Chinese bmw
