Bow down everyone...."The DAN HACK!"

[tumunga]

I think this nice little hack got lost in the big bang, so while showing pictures of new bike lift, I thought I'd repost these. Dan can give the story behind the hack...I don't believe I'm worthy:

 

[dan filipi]

Thanks for the credit Eric.

I came up with the idea of using the trailer plug when I was wiring my trailer.
They're well made and water resistant, putting tape around the middle makes them pretty water tight.
I used that plug on the ignition wires like Eric did. I wouldnt hesitate to use it for replacing the stator plug also.

 

[joedrum]

thats a great ideal im going to do that thanxs .

 

[AApple]

It's a great idea/solution.
I have a question, tho. On this application(pics), there are a set of spade terminal connectors a few inches from the flat 4-way connector on the engine side. Why? :headscratch: Would this not be added resistance, or more opportunity for corrosion? Seems like a soldered butt-connection(or splice w/heat shrink) would be better in the long run. Am I missing something here?
I'm just asking...not saying this set-up ain't good...just curious. :blush:

 

[jdegase]

I had the same thought...
if you ever had to pull the stator you would have to cut the long plug off...
BUT
solder and shrinkwrap would be the best solution
maybe they needed to remove the stator soon and didnt want to splice and solder twice..

I think I will just solder and shrinkwrap the connections when I get to that part on mine...
then if need service just unsolder first.

 

[dan filipi]

I don't know why the other connectors are there in Eric's pictures, that wasn't part of my recipe.

Eric?

 

[AApple]

...if you ever had to pull the stator you would have to cut the long plug off...

Ok...I'll bite...why? Wouldn't just unplugging the flat 4 way allow for that? Or do you need to separate the 4 wires to get the stator off?
Not trying to be an a-hole....just trying to learn. :mrgreen:

 

[tumunga]

It's a great idea/solution.
I have a question, tho. On this application(pics), there are a set of spade terminal connectors a few inches from the flat 4-way connector on the engine side. Why? :headscratch: Would this not be added resistance, or more opportunity for corrosion? Seems like a soldered butt-connection(or splice w/heat shrink) would be better in the long run. Am I missing something here?
I'm just asking...not saying this set-up ain't good...just curious. :blush:

I do believe I did that because I am stoooopid. After I did the hack, and took the pics, I saw what I did and thought WTF?!? Oh well, I wasn't going to pull them back off.

Now that I'm thinking about it, my soldering skills aren't that great yet, and those were the only things I had available to connect the wires. I didn't have enough wire to get my oven mitt hands in there to twist them and tape them up, so I used the spade connectors.

Please forgive me for making it so ugly. :beg:

 

[dan filipi]

My philosophy is "whatever works" Eric. Obviously yours does so that's good enough for me.

Joel, in the pictures the flat plug is there to repair a bad plug on the 4 ignition wires.
As for the 4 stator wires to the right of them most folks solder them instead of replacing a burned plug or putting any kind of plug back inline.
To me, soldering in a new plug is better because once it's done the plug can be separated instead of having to cut then resolder if the engine has do come out for any other reason, not just stator replacement.
Good question, I'm not sure if the flat plug would fit thru the hole in the rear cover. The original square one would have to so it might.

 

[rryman]

One little item on waterproofing electrical connections, and I'm sure Dan is aware of this stuff, also being an electrician.
3M Scotchkote. It is a liquid insulation you can put on say, a soldered and taped connection. The stuff is messy, but it's some great stuff. Electrical supply houses carry it, as does Lowes here on the right side of the country. Don't recall ever seeing it at the orange box, but they may have it, I just don't go there often.
Randy

 

[AApple]

:good:
Thanks, guys! As I said, I'm not trying to be negative, or degrade anyone's work, just trying to learn....I've done stuff that looks waaay worse! :blush:
I was just wondering if there was a specific reason for the double connection there. It makes sense if that has to go thru an opening somewhere that the flat plug wouldn't go thru. :good:
On the subject of plugs, there are square shaped, 4-wire connectors like that for automotive applications...not sure if they are for trailer wiring, but I do know I've used them before. Of course, the flat one is prolly a lot easier to stuff back in there, out of sight. :mrgreen:

 

[jdegase]

Eric and Dan
Thanks for the pics, it is a great idea.
I am stuck on the stator fix because thats the one I have to do next.
but the ignition plug my be included in this fix, just so I'v covered my bases before this summer.

 

[danf]

One little item on waterproofing electrical connections, and I'm sure Dan is aware of this stuff, also being an electrician.
3M Scotchkote. It is a liquid insulation you can put on say, a soldered and taped connection. The stuff is messy, but it's some great stuff. Electrical supply houses carry it, as does Lowes here on the right side of the country. Don't recall ever seeing it at the orange box, but they may have it, I just don't go there often.
Randy

Yes sir, I use something different and it works nicely to cover soldered wires and I seal the backs of plugs , I use JB Weld, it's a great insulater and gives a really good skin or seal... I always have fun putting it on wires because it's kinda fun.. I'm gonna try this 3m stuff, thanks.. His plug in idea is very creative and took some thought...