Brake Issues

[handyrandy]

I went out and rode for a few hours last night. Strange having brakes! I locked them up for a possum and boy what a difference.

I am ready to finish building my pop up camper now that I have my brakes back. Starting to feel a another week or two road trip coming on. I have been wanting to explore the upper peninsula of Michigan this year.

The mallet thing sounds good also. If there is a next time I will be ready.

 

[jdegase]

great job!
actually thinking I might give this (turning the bleeders to the upright position, and tapping with rubber mallet) a try
the dual piston calipers would tend to trap bubbles worse than the singles I'd think...

BTW
when you plan your trip into the UP let me know... I been wanting to do this for some time..

 

[handyrandy]

when you plan your trip into the UP let me know... I been wanting to do this for some time..

Will Do, would be nice to have a little company. Wife wants me out of her hair for a couple weeks.

I see you are right on the way.

 

[Heath]

Reading this I finally figured out what happened to my front brakes. They were always mushy even after numerous attempts to bleed. Then they seemed to get better and worked nearly perfect. A couple weeks ago I was looking for a leak because my master cylinder was almost empty. I think I had a big bubble too and it finally worked it's way out. I wish I had done it, then I would know how to fix it next time.

 

[Dave]

Ooops Sorry to come in after the battles over but

I have read about, heard about and seen first hand bikes ranging from full factory HRC road racers to current dirt bikes to older roadies like ours all with the age old problem of air 'locked' in the brakes
One thing I have never seen is an instruction to 'push' the pistons all the way back into the calipers before attempting to bleed
Tip: PUSH THE PISTONS BACK while an assistant opens and closes the bleeder (you know the air is in the caliper, push it out the bleed screw not up the line) and then (after making the bleeder at the top) pack timber or anything between the piston/pad and the rotor, start the beeding proccess and when you start to get some "pedal" remove the packing and continue the bleeding :read: I have won so many cartons (crates ?) of beer in pit lane with this method I ended up an alcoholic :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
Tip 2: do a quick "just checking" bleed 2 to 5 hundred miles or weeks later or at least after a bit of use

 

[handyrandy]

That is a great idea Dave. I still have a little air somewhere and I am going to try it.

 

[joedrum]

yea dave can be pretty sharp at times thats a real good tip from down under .....good going dave.....dave where are you i guess hes drinking beer on another bet he won..... :beer: :beer: :mrgreen:

 

[handyrandy]

Hello Guys, I just pulled the wing out of the moth balls and thought of something on the ongoing brake problem over the winter. I remember back when I had brakes there was some kind of shim behind the pads. I don't think it is there now. How important are the shims?

Randy

 

[mcgovern61]

Randy, the shims keep the pads from making noise from moving around. My '82 has '81 calipers on the front and one rotor is slightly out of round. I do not have the shims in there (missing when I got the bike) and when the pads are not pressed for braking, they kinda click or tap as the rotor turns. The rear pads have the shims and are quiet.

 

[handyrandy]

Boy that was quick. Would the shims have any thing to do with my spongy brakes?

 

[mcgovern61]

No...spongey brakes are air related only (unless your pads are worn down to nothing). Air in a hydraulic system compresses easily. Fluid does not. That is why hydraulics work so well on brake systems....pull the handle....pads clamp rotor. Air will compress and allow the handle to be pulled in without fully apply the pads.

 

[dan filipi]

Would the shims have any thing to do with my spongy brakes?

No.

Mine are missing too.
On the list of things to do. :builder:

Most likely air in the line or swelling brake lines.

 

[handyrandy]

Thanks for the help!

Randy

 

[patcoburn]

I have a 83 GL1100 that needs the brake fluid changed and the brakes bleed. I've read several posts on here that is difficult. Has anyone tried Speedbleeders? Sounds like a cheap fix for a real headache. The web site is www.speedbleeder.com

 

[mcgovern61]

I use speed bleeders with the portable brake bleeder kit and it worked great for me!

 

[patcoburn]

I changed brake fluid today, after installing speedbleeders. They work as advertised - one person can do it in 30 min. Great buy!

 

[dan filipi]

I'm definitely getting speed bleeders when I replace my rear master cylinder.

 

[RckRagman]

I, too, just installed the speed bleeders. . . WONDERFUL ITEM!

But I still get that spongy feeling on the foot pedal (not so much on the hand grip anymore, but a little)...I am definitely going to try removing the caliper bolt and rubber mallet idea this weekend (hadn't ever thought of that, but getting new ideas is what this site is all about, right??). Also noticed that my front brake (right) seems to be grabbing a bit quicker than the rear brake when the pedal is pushed down...My GUESS is that the rear needs to be bled more (again, using the rubber mallet idea). Anyone care to add any advice on that???
:thanks: (in advance)

 

[dan filipi]

I bet it is air in the rear but I wonder, how can you tell the front is applying before the rear?

 

[RckRagman]

I bet it is air in the rear but I wonder, how can you tell the front is applying before the rear?

If I 'pump' the pedal a little bit, I can feel the front end of the bike dip/dive slightly. Again, it's just a guess on my part...but it just made sense (in my head anyway) that if the front was diving, the front brake was gripping first (or tighter) than the rear, seeing as how I have the linked system.....
Does that reasoning make sense or am I looking at another issue I hadn't thought of yet?