carb sync 84/1200

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crowesnest3

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Moved last year, lot of turmoil,lot of stuff! .... finally go looking for my "bible" a well worn Haynes filled with print outs of "how tos" from CGW and NGW and its no where to be found, thinking a nasty gremlin "borrowed" it to mess with me! With it was my syc kit! and I want It. The point, my sync kit was only two vac guages with necessary hose connections, I know I only used two on my GL1100, somewhere out there found a system to use only two guages ..... did try to build one of those "monameters" that didn't work out at all! Can anybody point me in the right direction for a sync using only two guages. Was hoping maybe this year to buy the other two vac guages for the "real" thing but now back to just buying two, if someone can provide the directions .... something like sync one to one then to the other and carb 3 doesn't get syncd .... my new/old 1200 really needs the tweak ...... crowe .... :Egyptian: ...... beware of "gremlins" they ain't got no respect!
 
A four way fish tank valve can be used to do it with one vacuum gage. Just open the valve to the carb you are adjusting. Then close it and recheck the carb you are using for baseline.
 
Steve, that kinda sounds familiar. Know that carb three is not adjustable so it would be the bench mark to work from .... wish I could find my syncn kit, think it was the aquarium store for the vacuum fittings to the carbs, 5mm seems to sound right. Thanks ..... Crowe .... :Egyptian:
 
just a quick note that, surprise surprise, Carb 3 on the 1100 is the base line and carb 4 on the 1200 is the base line ... baseline = not adjustable .. will be puting up some pics of my single guage/ fish tank manifold sync system which I used yesterday and now I know that the carbs need rebuild cuz sync didn't clear up the lack of umph at higher rpms, smooth up till about 3600 then falls off, syncn did help .... damn! ... Crowe .... :Egyptian:
 
Did ya set the air/fuel mix screws? That might be all you need now. Each one needs set to highest rpm individually. Do all carbs then do them all again. Each carb affects the others.
 
AIR/FUEL mix, are those the screws towards the base of the carb that has been beckoning me? Just haven't as of yet found an id of what they are. Where are/is the air/fuel screws? and set to rpm? What do you mean? Will run a search on site to see what is said. Certainly would rather adjust a screw setting rather than pull the carb rack for a rebuild, not that that might not be a good idea anyway! .... Crowe..... :Egyptian:
 
Not sure where they are yet on 1200 carbs but on the 1100 carbs they are underneath close to the float bowls. The 1000 racks still had them conveniently on top. Procedure is simple though getting to the screws may not be. Warm the motor to operating temperature and set idle to 950 if it will hold that 1000 rpm if 950 stumbles. Pick any carb to start with and adjust the screw.If rpm drops turn it the other way. You may have to fiddle with it both ways when you get close to highest rpm. Listen closely and count more on your hearing than the tach. Once you are satisfied that's the best rpm you can get from that carb reset idle back where you started and adjust the next in the same way. Once you've adjusted all of them do them all once more. This should give you the best power and mileage possible. If you suspect carbs may be in need of cleaning run your favorite cleaner in the fuel at least every other fill up. If they were dirty by mid season they should be much cleaner and you might want to adjust air mix again.
 
ok guys, think I've got them spotted and will go for that adjustment maybe later today. Thinking counting off turns to seat them so I know where I'm starting from will pull them out for visual inspection and survey the O rings ... maybe after that run a re- sync. Last night I gave the carb rack .... beware of idle minds! ..... an "ultra sound" shake by contacting the carbs with a flat bar and running my random orbit sander on it. Polished up the flat bar pretty nice! Been running ATF thru and high octane non ethanol gas. ...... Crowe ... :Egyptian:
 
ha! what I thought to be the air/fuel was the screw plug to drain the bowel. So they are behind the plugged opening which will nee to be drilled out, but only after the carb rack is removed cuz I don't see anyway else to drill out the plug. Unless the ATF and now a dose of Seafoam clears the pipes I've got a carb rebuild in my future, still gotta run a comp test to see whats happening there ( the bike is new to me ) so nothing is off the table till it is! ..... later ....Crowe ..... :Egyptian:
 

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